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LETTER XX. 



Raphoe, Aug. 29, 1813, 



had to retrace four miles of the road 

 until we came to the head of the Lough, when 

 we turned to the right, and passed over a very 

 hilly country. From various points we had an 

 interesting view of the south end of the island, 

 which is highly cultivated. The extensive pro- 

 spects of the Lough, and the Alpine boundary 

 of the Donegal mountains, were frequently and 

 advantageously presented to our observation. 



We passed through a village, where the 

 church, the kirk, and catholic chapel, are con- 

 gregated. We happened to arrive as the dif- 

 ferent flocks were assembling : this incident 

 created no small curiosity in us to observe the 

 difference of character in the respective con- 

 gregations. The presbyterians, whose features 

 bore a strong resemblance to the Scotch, had 

 all the external marks of competence and com- 

 fort. The dress of the catholics, who were the 

 most numerous, was decent, but not costly ; I 



