16 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING. 



ment, — excelling them both in honesty and morality, and all that elevates 

 and ennobles the human character. Their wild habits have become in a 

 great measure subdued by the restraining influences of Christianity, and 

 they themselves transformed into industrious cultivators of the soil, — occu- 

 pying neat mansions with smiling fields around them. 



Nor are they altogether neglectful of the means of education. The 

 mission schools are generally well attended by ready pupils, in no respect 

 less backward than the more favored ones of other lands. It is not rare 

 even, considering the smallness of their number, to meet among them with 

 persons of liberal education and accomplishments. Their mode of dress 

 assimilates that of the whites, though, as yet, fashion has made compara- 

 tively but small inroads. The unsophisticated eye would find prolific source 

 for amusement in the uncouth appearance of their females on public occa- 

 sions. Perchance a gay Indian maiden comes flaunting past, with a huge 

 fur-hat awkwardly placed upon her head, — embanded by broad strips of 

 figured tin, instead of ribbons, — and ears distended with large flattened 

 rings of silver, reaching to her shoulders ; and here another, solely habited 

 in a long woUen under-dress, obtrudes to view, and skips along in all the 

 pride and pomposity of a regular ci^ belle ! Such are sights by no means 

 uncommon. 



These tribes have a regular civil government of their own, and all laws 

 instituted for the general welfare are duly respected. They are, also, be- 

 coming more temperate in their habits, fully convinced that ardent spirits 

 have hitherto proved the greatest enemy to the red man. The churches 

 of various christain denominations, established among them, are in a flour- 

 ishing condition, and include with their members many whose lives of 

 examplary piety adorn their professions. 



Taken as a whole, the several Indian tribes, occupying this beautiful 

 and fertile section of country, are living witnesses to the softening and be- 

 nign influences of enlightened christian eflbrt, and furnish indubitable 

 evidence of the susceptibility of the Aborigine for civilization and im- 

 provement. 



CHAPTER II. 



Preparations for leaving.— Scenes at Camp.— Things as they appeared.— Simplic- 

 ity of mountaineers. — Sleep in the open air. — Character, habits, and costume of 

 mountaineers. — Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. — The commandant. — En 



route.— Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company.— Grouse. 



Elm Grove. — A storm. — Santa Fe traders. — Indian battle. 



After many vexatious delays and disappointments, the time was at length 

 fixed for our departure, and leaving Independance on the 2d of September, 

 I proceeded to join the encampment without the state line. It was nearly 

 7iight before I reached my destination, and the camp-fires were already 



