ILFRACOMBE, 5 



abound on the shore ; and as a student of Comparative 

 Anatomy, I had been led to read extensively respecting the 

 structure and functions of marine animals ; but of direct 

 knowledge I had next to nothing. I had done something 

 with ponds and their inhabitants, and was now desirous of 

 ransacking the sea. 



Ilfracombe was the spot fixed on, and a more charming 

 spot England could hardlj'- furnish. At first I knew not how 

 much of the delight with which its beauty thrilled me might 

 be owing to the mere effect of comparison and novelty. 

 After the metropolis, any broadening blue of sea, any bold 

 headland or straggling reef, seems supremely beautiful — and 

 novelty is in itself an integer in all travelling enjoyment. 

 But familiarity only served to deepen my sense of the 

 beauty of Ilfracombe ; the very last look was taken with a 

 reluctance springing from unsatiated desire ; and on reach- 

 ing Tenby, also a charming spot, the overpowering sense 

 of disappointment assured me that Ilfracombe uus the 

 enchantress she had seemed. I will not describe Ilfra- 

 combe, and for two reasons : First, it would occupy all the 

 chapter ; and, secondly, which perhaps is as good a reason 

 as the other, I have no descriptive power. Had I the 

 power, the picture would be tempting, for the charms of 

 the place are manifold. The country all round is billowy 

 with hills, which rarely seem to descend into valleys. The 

 paradox may move your scepticism ; you may bring excel- 

 lent reasons, physical, geological, and geographical, to prove 

 that wherever there are hills there must be valleys. Never- 

 theless, the abstract force of what must he vanishes before 



