FIRST SIGHT OF SCILLY. 187 



I urged my staggering steps up the ladder, and emerged 

 upon the deck, where the bright sunlight revealed a scene, 

 which of itself was repayment and full discharge for any 

 arrears of misery. We were in St Mary's Sound. The 

 islands lay around us, ten times bigger than imagination 

 had prefigured, and incomparably more beautiful. On their 

 picturesque varieties I might turn a green countenance and 

 olazed eye, but the heart within me bounded like a leopard 

 on his prey. This was worth coming to ! Those poor devils 

 who sit at home at ease, and supply their tanks from com- 

 mercial sources, were now the objects of pitiless sarcasms 

 for their want of enterprise. In such a mood I hastily 

 secured comfortable lodgings, clean as a Dutchman's, at the 

 Post-office ; swallowed some tea and toast, to appease the 

 baser appetites, and hurried forth to satisfy the hunger of 

 the soul, by a survey of the Bay, and its promises. The 

 promontory on which stands Star Castle, offered a fine 

 breezy walk over downs resplendent with golden furze,* and 

 suffered the eye to take the widest sweep. How thoroughly 

 I enjoyed that walk ! The downs were so brilliant that one 

 could sympathise with the enthusiasm of Linnseus on his 

 arrival in England, and his first sight of furze, as he flung 

 himself on his knees, and thanked God for having made 

 anything so beautiful. The downs were all aflame with 

 their golden light. Ever and anon a rabbit started across 

 the path, or the timid deer were seen emerging from the 

 clumps of golden bush. A glance at the many reefs and 



* The reader who has not seen the furze in Devonshire and Cornwall can 

 form but a faint idea of its rich colour and profusion. 



