THE IRRIGATION AGE. 



31 



CAN YOU DRESS A HOG CORRECTLY? 



By ANDREW BOSS, 



of Minnesota College of Agriculture 



IT is an easy matter to dress hogs neatly provided 

 the temperature of the water is just right. The 

 water for scalding should be heated to a temperature 

 of 200-212 degrees Fahrenheit. On a farm where it 

 must be heated in the house, usually it should be 

 boiling when removed from the stove. If turned 

 into a cold barrel it will then be about the right 

 temperature, 185-195 degrees, when the hog is ready 

 to be scalded. Water at 165-175 degrees will scald 

 a hog, but more time will be required and the results 

 are not so satisfactory. It is not expected that a 

 thermometer will always be used, but boiling water 

 carried from the stove to a cold barrel out of doors 

 will usually be at about the right temperature for 

 scalding, when the hog is put in the barrel, unless 

 there is unnecessary delay. 



A small shovelful of hard wood ashes, added 

 to the water, aids materially in removing the scruf 

 from the body, although it has a bad effect in loosen- 

 ing the hair. A lump of lime or handful of soft soap 

 will have the same effect. 



While being scalded the hog should be kept 

 moving constantly to avoid cooking the skin. As 

 soon as the hair and scurf slip easily from the surface 

 scalding is complete. If it is suspected that the 

 water is too hot, scald the hind end of the hog first ; 

 if too cold, the front end, in order to always get a 

 good scald on the head, which is difficult to clean. 



The scraping should begin just as soon as the 

 hog is removed from the water and the more readily 

 it is done the easier it will be. The head and feet 

 should be cleaned first, as they cool quickly. A small 

 hand "candlestick" for scraper is a very convenient 

 tool for the purpose. It may be purchased at almost 

 any hardware store for from 25 to 35 cents. 



After removing the hair from the body the hog 

 should be hung up and rinsed with hot water and 

 then with cold, scraping down with a sharp knife 

 to remove all hair and scurf from the body. 



HOW TO SILO CORN 



By J. G. WATSON, 



Missouri College of Agriculture 



Don't wait too long to fill the silo. Begin as 

 soon as the corn is right for fodder. The kernels 

 should be in the dough stage but dented and the 

 lower leaves turning brown. Let the corn mature 

 as much as possible without becoming so dry that 

 water must be added to make the silage pack solidly 

 and ferment properly. 



Cut into pieces half to three-fourths of an inch 

 long to make them pack well and to prevent waste 

 in feeding. This takes more power, but is worth it. 

 Pack well with concrete tampers, keeping the silage 

 higher at the wall than in the center. 



Fill slowly, if possible letting the silage settle 

 a day or so at a time. This makes it keep better 

 and increases the amount the silo will hold. This 

 amount may be still further increased by using 



woven wire to hold more silage at the top. It will 

 gradually settle into the silo but tends to spoil while 

 doing so. If more silage is added after such settling, 

 take out the spoiled layer at the top. 



If caught by frost, the corn for silage should 

 be cut before it dries out. After that, add water. 

 The corn may even be shocked to put in at a more 

 convenient time or to refill the silo if enough water 

 is added. 



IRRIGATION MEETINGS 



The annual Oregon Irrigation Congress will be 

 held in Portland, December 28-30, at the Imperial 

 Hotel. 



The Nebraska State Irrigation Association will 

 meet in annual convention at Bridgeport December 

 7, 8 and 9. 



The semi-annual meeting of the Associated Irri- 

 gators of Western Nebraska was held in Scottsbluff 

 during the past month. 



Although but six per cent of Spain's cultivated 

 land is under irrigation, the irrigated sections yield 

 about one-fourth of the nation's agricultural pro- 

 duction. 



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