396 OLD FASHIONED FAKE. [CHAP. xi. 



tened, he tells us, in the " Nessotropheion," or Duckery. 

 Columella gives similar instructions in almost the same 

 words, and mentions besides the sylvestres gallince, 

 Wood-hens, called Rustics (qua rustica appellantur) : 

 these, he says, will not breed in servitude, and therefore 

 he gives no more directions about them, except that 

 they be fed to repletion, in order to make them more fit 

 (aptiores) for convivial banquets. What species of bird 

 is meant by them I cannot even guess. 



Ruffs and Reeves were, years ago, snared in large 

 numbers on their strutting hillocks, during their season 

 of pugnacity, by men who then fatted them on bread 

 and milk, and made a trade of carrying them to great 

 provincial feasts. But the practice is now obsolete ; 

 and, except Quails and Ortolans, "fatted fowl" are 

 pretty nearly obliterated from our bills of fare. Cyg- 

 nets, however, hopped in August and ponded till No- 

 vember, may be truly, though they are not popularly, 

 referred to the same class. 



Fatted fowl belong so completely to good old times, 

 that the few worthy old-fashioned folks whom one meets 

 with now and then ladies and gentlemen who con- 

 trive to abstain from the use of envelopes and railway 

 carriages, so long as a sheet 'of letter-Tpa.per or a post- 

 chaise is to be found in archaeological warehouses, 

 they, to be consistent, ought never to be without. a 

 supply of these dainties for the third course of their 

 dinners of state. And, at such tables, medieval dishes 

 would be sure to be assisted by good port and claret, of 

 a respectable antiquity. The eater might safely confide 

 in wine likely to cheer man's heart, not upset his 

 stomach. The revival of an entree of Ruffs and 

 Reeves, not such as are imported from Holland and 

 to be had for ninepence a-piece in Hungerford Market 



