In Peru. 103 



ing the treasures of birds, insects, and fossils were 

 cared for and packed upon the mules. 



On these expeditions he was a constant source of 

 wonderment to the natives. Some thought him 

 mad or simple, for who, they argued, would spend 

 time and money in killing birds one could not eat, 

 and picking up the most worthless rocks and leaving 

 the minerals. As he paid well for services, they 

 were content, but he was ever a mystery. 



The valley of the Copiapo was a delightful region, 

 and among its interesting features was a hill the 

 natives called " El Bramador," or the roarer, as 

 when persons attempted to climb its sides it emitted 

 an audible warning sound, especially if sand was 

 sent whirling down its sides. From Copiapo Dar- 

 win rode to the port where the Beagle was lying, 

 and which at once set sail for Iquique, on the coast 

 of Peru, a small town at the base of a rocky cliff, 

 so barren that even water had to be brought in 

 boats forty miles to supply the inhabitants. Dar- 

 win bought a bottle of water here, paying three- 

 pence for it. Almost every article had to be im- 

 ported, yet the town was important for its nitrate 

 of soda works, which the naturalist visited, finding 

 the deposit to consist of a stratum near the surface 

 which had been traced for one hundred and fifty 

 miles, and represented, he assumed, an ancient arm 

 of the ocean, though now elevated thirty-three hun- 

 dred feet above the sea. From here the Beagle sailed 

 for Callao, where though a stay of six weeks was 

 made, Darwin saw little of the country, as it was 

 not safe to venture into the open on account of 



