CONTENTS xiii 



Caravan drivers— Their cliesR— Tlio landlady's wealth— Value 

 of gold — City of Ta-tsien-ln — Its inhabitants— Their dress and 

 arms — Lamas — Funeral rites of a lama — Brick tea — Loads 



can-ied by coolies — Trade— Distance tra\elled by caravans 



Currency- Sealincj-wax — Women's feast— Sanscrit inscriptions 

 — Despatch carriers between Pekin and Lhassa — Departure of 

 Mr. Rockhill — Misfortunes of his men — Tibetan dogs — Expe- 

 dition to Chet-tu — Poor lodgings — CrossojMlon Tihetanum seen 

 — Pai-nassiiis Imjjcrator — Expedition to the north— Shooting 

 CrossoiAilon — Prepartions for departure . . . 134 



CHAPTER XI 



RETUEN JOURNEY TO ICHANG 



Departure for Wa-ssu — Difliculty at Fu-lin — Huang-mu-chang — 

 Road lost — So-i-ling Pass at night — Arrive at Ta-tien-chih 

 at midnight — Collectors work — Horses procured — Guard of 

 soldiers — Arrive at Kia-ting-fu — Carelessness with mails — Go to 

 my boat — Very heavy flood — Great loss of hfe — False rumours 

 concerning the object of my journey — Inspection of boat by Tao- 

 tai — Visit to city — Lowban procures flag — Leave for Ichang — 

 Destruction of village — Boat aground in wrong channel — Pass 

 Sui-fu — Lu-chau — Delayed by heavy rain — Arrival at Chung- 

 king—Delayed by high river at Quei-chow-fu — Wrecks of 

 junks — Pass the Sin-tan and Ta-timg rapids — Waterfalls . 14'i 



CHAPTER XII 



SECOND JOURNEY TO TA-TSIEN-LU 



Arrival at Ichang — Story of the lowban's flag — Despatch collec- 

 tions — Leopard on the river bank — Trip to Hankow — Telegi'aph 

 line — Official letters concerning ray boat — I'repare for jouriiey 

 up river — Boat damaged on rock — Curious pagoda at Shi-po- 

 chia — Arrive at Chung-king — Collector sent to Quei-chau — Sui- 

 fu — Kia-ting-fii — Prepare for journey — Despatch coolies to 

 Kia-kiang— Omei-hsien — Wan-nien-tze — Bronze elephant and 

 Buddha— Peculiar tea — Tibetan worshipper — The summit of 

 Mount Omei — Bronze Temple — Pagoda — Tremendous precipice 

 — Tigers on the mountain — Suicides — View of the Snowy 



