122 TREES IN WINTER 



use of a long rope or steel rod that passes tliroiigh screw-eyes 

 on the pole. This tool may also be used as a hook with which 

 to pull loose branches out of a tree. If a similar instrument 



Fig. 49. Four types of "loppers" from which the handles have been 

 removed for photographing. 



could be made with the cutting blade working from above, it 

 would be a decided improvement. Among the other tools and 

 accessories that are likely to prove useful may be mentioned, a 

 small one-handed axe; a piece of rope; tree climbers; a pruner's 

 belt for the carrying of tools and for supporting the operator. 



Tahing Car^e of the Wounds — The wounds made by pruning 

 must be protected to prevent the access of fungi. ^ Small wounds, 

 or those less than two inches in diameter are likely to heal over 

 before danger of infection. / This depends largely upon the species 

 and the vigor of the tree.' The wounds of Poplars and Willows 

 heal over quickly, while those of the White Oak or Sugar Maple 

 heal very slowly. ^ As a rule, all wounds two inches or more in 

 diameter should be dressed with some preparation./ "WTien the 

 pruning is done in the fall or winter the dressing should be 

 delayed till spring. This will give the cut surface a chance to dry 

 out and the wood to become "checked.'' If the dressing is applied 

 when the wood is in such condition it will be decidedly more 

 effective in sealing up the cracks. Thick paint made from white 

 lead and raw linseed oil will answer the purpose. A little green 

 or black coloring matter may be added to make the wounds less 



