84 Unexplored Spain 



of fife and drum — had been audible, and during the twelve-mile 

 ride next morning fresh contingents winding through the scrub- 

 clad plain were constantly sighted, all converging upon Roclo. 

 It was not, however, till reaching that hamlet that the full 

 extent of the pilgrimage became apparent, and a striking and 

 characteristic spectacle it formed. From every point of the 

 compass were descried long files of white-tilted ox- waggons — 

 hundreds of them — slowly advancing across the fiower-starred 

 plain ; the waggons all bedecked in gala style, crammed to the 

 last seat with guitar-touching girls, with smiling duennas and 

 attendant squires ; the ox-teams gaily caparisoned, and escorted 

 by prancing cavaliers, many with wife or daughter mounted 

 pillion-wise behind, while younger pilgrims challenged impromptu 

 trials of speed — a series of minor steeplechases. There were 

 four-in-hand brakes, mule-teams and donkey-carts, pious 

 pedestrians — a motley parade enveloped in clouds of dust and 

 noise, but all in perfect order. 



The following quaint description was written down foi- us 

 by a Spanish friend who accompanied us : — 



It is at the entry of the vaiious processions that the most stvikiug 

 and picturesque effects are produced by the cavalcade. Here one sees 

 displayed the grace and ability of the Amazon — the robust and comely 

 Andalucian maiden, carried d ancas (pillion-wise) at the back of his 

 saddle by gallant cavalier proud of his gentle companion, and exhibiting 

 to advantage his skill in horsemanship. The noble steed, conscious of its 

 onerous part, carries the double burden with care and spirit, being trained 

 to curvet and rear in all the bravery of mediaeval and Saracenic age. 



About 4 P.M., while the converging caravans were yet a mile 

 or so afield, all halted, each to organise its own procession, and 

 each headed by the waggon bearing its own Virgin bedecked 

 in gorgeous apparels of silk and silver braid. Then to the 

 accompaniment of bands and bell-ringing, hand-clapping and 

 castanets, drum, tambourine, and guitar, with flags flying and 

 steeds curvetting, this singular combination of religious rite with 

 musical fantasia resumed its advance into the village. 



Despite the dust and crush not a unit but held its assigned 

 position, and thus — one long procession succeeding another — the 

 whole concourse filed into the village, crossed its narrow green, 

 and sought the shrine where, within the open doors, the Virgin 

 of Roclo, removed from the altar, was placed to receive the 



