CHAPTEE XX 



SIERRA DE GREDOS 



"We met, our trio, on the platform of Charing Cross — not classic 

 but perhaps historic ground, since so many notable expeditions 

 have started therefrom, with others of less importance. 



The heat in Madrid towards the end of August (1896) was 

 not excessive — less than we had feared. We enjoyed, that 

 Sunday, quite an excellent bull-fight, although the bulls them- 

 selves had been advertised as of "only one horn" apiece {de 

 un cuerno). There was no sign, however, of any cornual 

 deficiency as each magnificent animal dashed into the arena, 

 although with binoculars one could detect a slight splintering of 

 one horn-point, a defect which had caused the rejection of that 

 animal from the herd-list. For these bulls were, in fact, of notable 

 })lood — that of Ybarra of Sevillian vegas — and none bearing that 

 name appear in first-class corridas save absolutely perfect and 

 unblemished. 



The point illustrates the keen appreciation of equality in the 

 fiohtino--bull, which in Spain goes without saying, yet may well de- 

 ceive the casual stranger. Thus an American party who breakfasted 

 with us (always keen to get the best, but not always knowing 

 where to find it) despised the " Unicorns " and reserved them- 

 selves instead for the opera. We enjoyed an excellent fight with 

 dashino- bulls — two clearing the barrier and causing a fine 

 stampede among the military, the police, and crowds of itinerant 

 fruit- and water-sellers who occupy the Entre-harreras. 



These " Unicorns" proved really better bulls than at many of 

 the formal corridas. Three young and rising matadors despatched 

 the animals — two each. They were Galindo, Gavira, and Parrao^ — 

 both the latter excellent. Gavira looked as if he might take first 

 rank in his order, while Parrao displayed a coolness in the lidia 

 such as we had seldom before seen — even to stroking the bull's 



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