238 Unexplored Spain 



of life. A few minutes later, and a pair of ring- plovers {Aegialitis 

 curonica) on the river accentuated the same pitiful contrast. 



Such small cultivation as exists in the Hurdes is carried on 

 under supreme difficulty. The hills themselves are uncultivable, 

 and the only opportunities that present themselves are either 

 chance open spaces amidst interminable rock, or such rare and 

 narrow strips of soil as can exist between precipitous slopes and 

 the banks of the streams. Here little garden-patches, thirty or 

 forty feet long by a dozen in width, are reclaimed ; but the very 

 earth is liable to be swept away by winter-floods pouring down 

 the mountain-sides, and has to be replaced by fresh soil carried 

 — it may be long distances — on men's shoulders. Here a few 

 potatoes may be raised and in the broader valleys scant crops of 



"^-•B*^ 



WHITE WAGTAIL 



rye. The few fruit trees are neglected, and therefore give short 

 yield, though what little is produced is of exquisite flavour, com- 

 prising figs, cherries, a sort of peach [pavia), olives, and vines. 

 All crops are subject to the ravages of wild-boars, which roam 

 in bands of a dozen to a score, fearless of man and molested 

 by none ; while wolves take toll of the flocks. 



Red deer also wander freely and unpreserved over these 

 ownerless hills — possibly the only place in Europe where such is 

 the case. We inquired whether many were shot, but were told 

 that such an event occurred rarely, though the Hurdano gunner 

 might often approach within close range. " We are not ensenados 

 [instructed] in the arts of chase," explained our informant. A few 

 partridges and hares are found, with trout in the upper waters. 



Despite their degradation, the Hurdanos, we were assured, 

 display no criminal taint such as is inherent among Gipsies. 



