After Chamois in the Asturias 285 



presumed that another group of hovels hidden somewhere beneath 

 our sioht formed Lower Buhies. 



o 



AVe entered the best looking of these stone-age abodes, and 

 discovered that it formed the presbytery of the Cura of Bulnes, 

 a strange mixture of alpine hut with Gothic hermitage. Slabs of 

 rough stone projecting from unhewn walls served as tables, while 

 rudely carved oak-chests did double duty as seats or wardrobes 

 in turn. The Cura's bed occupied one corner, and from the walls 

 huno; aun and riHe, together with accoutrements of the chase — 

 satchels, belts, and pouches, all made of chamois-skin. At first 

 sight indeed the whole presbytery reeked rather of hunting than 

 of holiness — it is scarce too strong to say it smelt of game. An 

 inner apartment, windowless and lit by the feeble flicker of a 

 maf'ijDOsa, that recalled the reed- lights of mediaeval history (and 

 to which, by the way, access was only gained past other cells 

 which appeared to be the abode of cows and of the cook respec- 

 tively), was assigned to us. 



The Padre himself was away on the cliffs above cutting 

 hay, for he combines agriculture with the care of souls, owns 

 many cows, and makes the celebrated cheese known as " Cabrales." 

 Presently he joined us in his stone chamber, and at once showed 

 himself to be, by his frank and genuine manner, what later 

 experience proved him, a true sportsman and a most unselfish 

 companion. His Reverence at once set about the details of 

 organising our hunt, sent his nephew to round-up the mountain 

 lads, some being sent off at once to spend that night, how, we 

 know not, in crags of the Pena Vieja, while others were instructed 

 to join us there in the morning. 



While we dined on smoked chamois and rouoh red wine he 

 busied himself arranging weapons, ammunition, and mocassins 

 for a few days' work on the crags. Our arrival having been 

 prearranged, we were soon on our upward way, by sinous tracks 

 which lead to the summits of the Picos de Europa, some altitudes 

 of which are as follows : Pena Vieja, 10,046 feet; Picos de Hierro, 

 9610 feet; Pico de San Benigno, 9329 feet. All heavy baggage 

 was left below ; there only remained the tent, rugs, guns, and 

 cartridges, and these were got up, heaven knows how, to about 

 half the required height on the backs of two donkeys. For 

 provisions we relied on the milk and bread of the cheese-makers 

 who live up there, much in the style of the Norwegian peasants 



