GORGONZOLA, AND MOULDED CHEESE 39 



ence is chiefly made, is not so rich as is 

 generally supposed, but it is not absolutely 

 essential that the milk intended for conversion 

 into Gorgonzola or Stilton cheese should be 

 specially rich in fat. To a very large extent 

 this milk is produced by small owners of cows, 

 who manufacture the cheese, but do not perfect 

 or ripen it, selling it to merchants for this 

 purpose, who in their turn finish the process 

 in the cellars and caves which they own. 

 Gorgonzola is a cheese which is produced from 

 two curds, that is to say, from two lots of curd 

 made at different times. When the two curds 

 are put into the mould which gives form to the 

 cheese, one is cold and stale and the other warm 

 and fresh. For example, assuming the cheese 

 to be moulded in the morning, the milk of the 

 evening previous having been brought to a 

 temperature varying from 80 to 85 F., and 

 in some cases 90 F., the rennet is added. 

 It is important, however, to make one or two 

 remarks at this point. In dairies which are 

 conducted upon defined principles the temper- 

 atures adopted are systematically arranged in 

 accordance with the weather ; but large 



