706 



Canadian Forestry Journal, September, igi6 



a larger proportion of the root sys- 

 tem with these trees. 



Only trees with a well-developed 

 single leader or main-stem should be 

 chosen. Those with two or three 

 leaders will probably develop into 

 crotched trees and have all the weak- 

 nesses of that type. However, by 

 careful pruning as the tree develops, 

 the central stem can sometimes be 

 encouraged to become the leader. 



A good straight leader like a 

 whip-stalk or fishing pole is what is 

 desired for the ideal street or lawn 

 tree. For planting adjoining walks, 

 where head room is required for pe- 

 destrians, a straight stemmed tree 

 from one to one-and-one-half inches 

 in diameter at breast height, and 

 clear of branches for at least seven 

 feet from the ground, will be found 

 most suitable. If the tree is set 

 near a driveway it may be necessary 

 to gradually remove the lower 

 branches as the top develops until 

 there is ample clearance for vehicles. 

 On lawns and other open situations 

 the lower branches may be retained 

 if desired. 



One of the commonest mistakes 

 made is in choosing large trees. 

 The smaller the tree the less likely 

 it is to sufifer in transplanting. 

 Small trees will often catch up to 

 larger trees in a few years. 



On Arrival From Nursery. 



Trees are shipped from the nursery 

 in bales or boxes with their roots 

 packed in wet moss and wrapped 

 in burlap. The stems are sur- 

 sounded with straw and also wrap- 

 ped and tied. If they arrive be- 

 fore planting time the roots should 

 be "puddled" and the trees "heeled 

 in." Puddling consists in dipping 

 the roots in a mixture of clay and 

 water about the consistency of or- 

 dinary paint. This forms a coating 

 over the roots and aid in preventing 

 them from drying out. The heel- 

 ing in consists in digging a trench 

 sufficienth' deep to contain the roots 

 with moist earth. If protected 



from damage by rodents and the 

 elements, they may be heeled in dur- 

 ing the fall and left all winter for 

 spring planting. 



Taking Up Trees. 



In taking up trees which are 

 growing on the place, as much earth 

 as possible should be removed with 

 the roots. This prevents the roots 

 from drying out. If the trees are 

 to be carried any distance before 

 planting again it is advisable to 

 wrap the ball of earth in canvas or 

 place each tree in a bag and tie in 

 such a manner as to prevent the 

 earth from being shaken off. At no 

 stage in the taking up, transplanting 

 or planting should the roots be 

 allowed to become dry. This is im- 

 portant. The planting should be 

 done as soon as possible after tak- 

 ing up. 



Preparing Holes. 



The hole in which the tree is to 

 be planted should be made much 

 broader and deeper than is necessary 

 to accommodate the roots. Before 

 placing in the tree, the hole should 

 be partly filled in with good garden 

 loam or some of the surface soil, 

 which has been removed in the dig- 

 ging, mixed with some well-rotted 

 manure. 



The hole is filled in sufficiently 

 deep to bring the tree to the same 

 level at which it stood before being- 

 taken up. The tree should not be 

 set deeper than it stood before, nei- 

 ther should earth be banked up 

 about the stem, except possibly in 

 the case of fall planting, when it is 

 advisable to heap it up at least a 

 foot high until the spring. This 

 overcomes the tendency to heave 

 out and to a .certain extent affords 

 protection against mice. 



If the tree retains a ball of earth 

 about its roots it can then be set in 

 the prepared hole. The remaining 

 space surrounding it is then firmly 

 packed a little at a time with good 

 garden loam vintil the hole is com- 



