THE SUMMER FLOWER-GARDEN. 



TENDER ANNUALS. 



We have stated that the classification of hardy, half-hardy, and tender annuals, was a convenient 

 one ; but really there is scarcely an annual but will grow fi-eely in our climate in the open ground in 

 summer. The term tender has been applied by English gardeners because the plants do not attain 

 full perfection unless grown in pots in the greenhouse. Such are the Globe Amaranth, Balsam, 

 Egg-plant, &c. All the tender annuals, therefore, may be treated in the same manner as the half- 

 hardy, and with equal success. 



BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS. 



Biennial and perennial plants are almost indispensable additio::s to the flower-garden, display- 

 ing their blossoms both early and late, succeeding and even flowering with the spring bulbs, and con- 

 tinuing long after the frost has destroyed the hardiest annuals. They are also so easily cultivated, 

 and require so little care for their great amount of beauty, that they must be ranked as the most 

 permanent and showy objects of the flower-border. We only need name the Larkspur, Phlox, 

 Lychnis, Coreopsis, Saxitrage, &c., as a lew among the many imposing and elegant groups. 



Biennials are those plants that generally do not flower until the second year, and, after bloom- 

 ing, die. These include, however, many splendid si)ecies, such as the Foxglove, Canterbury Bells, 

 Sweet Williams, Hollyhocks, &c. Perennials are plants which generally do not bloom until the 

 second year, but continue to bloom for years in succession, and may be propagated, after once 

 obtained, by division of the roots, growing more vigorously and flowering better if divided and re- 

 planted every three or four years. 



The proper time for sowing the seeds of hardy kinds is in April or May, at the period of sow- 

 ing the hardy annuals, in order to obtain a good strong growth the first year, and a greater abun- 

 dance of flowers the second ; but the sowings may be continued with success as late as August, after 

 which the plants will not become strong enough to flower the following year. Whether the seeds 

 are sown in beds or in the border, the young plants should be thinned out, and afterwards trans- 

 planted, just as we have directed for hardy annuals, only giving them more room, and encouraging 

 a vigorous growth by hoeing, watering, &c. On the approach of severe frosty weather, protect the 

 plants with a light covering of leaves or coarse manure, and the succeeding year they will blossom 

 m great profusion. 



SPECIAL DIRECTIONS TO AMATEUR CULTIVATORS. 



In addition to the preceding remarks, which are given as the results of our own practice for many 

 years, and which, we think, are adequate for all general purposes, the following special directions are 

 added for the guidance of amateurs in the treatment of many of the more choice and new flowers 

 enumerated in our Catalogue. If carefully followed, it is hoped they will remove all causes ef 

 failure in the attempt to cultivate many of the most beautiful plants. 



French and German Asters. — These now justly admired and most beautiful annuals 

 should be sown in pots, pans, or boxes, in a well-prepared soil, and placed vet an exhausted hotbed 

 or cold frame, watering them gently till the plants are an inch high ; when, after hardening off by 

 gradual exposure to thi" air, they should be transplanted into the open ground in a light, rich soil, 

 placing them in rows six inches apart, shading for a few hours in the middle of the day, until well 

 rooted. In the course of two or three weeks, they will have become stout and stocky, and ready 

 for replanting out where they are to flower. Before transplanting, give the bed a good watering; 

 then with a trowel take each plant up separately ar>d carefully, and remove it to the bed or border ; 

 finish with another liberal watering, which must be repeated if the weather is dry : they will soon 

 take root, however, and will make a rapid growth. Before the flowers expand, tie each plant up 

 to a neat stick, and, if the soil is not rich, apply a light sprinkling of guano. The first week of 

 June is the best period for final planting. 



Zinnias may be treated precisely like the Aster. The double varieties, in eight distinct colors, 

 are superb ornaments of the garden. 



Epacvises, Heaths, Azaleas, and Rhododendrons should be planted in boxes or pans, 

 well drained, and filled with light, very sandy loam, with a small quantity of peat. Make the 

 earth firm, and give a thorough watering before sowing. Cover the surface with a little sand, upon 

 which the seed should be thinly scattered, covering with the least possible quantity of fine sand. 

 Place the pans or boxes in the greenhouse, where they can be wholly shaded ft-om the mid-day 

 sun, and lightly damp the surface when dry. The young plants will make their appearance in 

 three or four weeks ; and, when strong enough to handle easily, transplant into boxes an inch or 

 two apart, and gradually harden them off, so as to remove to frames or the open air. 



Calceolarias, Cinerarias, and Chinese Primrose, require similar treatment. The seeds of 

 the former are so minute, that they are liable to be destroyed by covering ; and complaints are fi-equent 

 of the failure to make the seed grow. If the following directions are carefully observed, an abun- 

 dance of plants may be easily raised : — 



The seed should be sown in pots prepared in the following manner : The pot to be half filled 

 with drainage, over that rough siftings of the mould, and the surface covered with soil as fine as pos- 

 sible, half of which should be composed of silver sand. When prepared thus, it should be watered 

 with a fine rose, immediately after which sow the seed carefully without any covering of soil. The 

 pots should then be placed under a close frame or hand-glass, in a shady part of the garden (no arti- 

 ficial heat being required). In large establishments, of course, they may have propagating or other 



