EN ROUTE 19 



manshoep was a pleasantly situated and well-laid- 

 out little township with many good buildings. 



Two days more in the train brought us to 

 Windhuk, the capital, where I stayed some nine 

 or ten days. The first morning I presented my 

 papers and was courteously received by the 

 Governor and by the Administrator. Dr. Hint- 

 rager himself was particularly kind and gave me 

 permission to travel quite freely across their north- 

 western districts into Angola. There is a good 

 supply of water in Windhuk, obtained from warm 

 springs evidently of an artesian nature, but the 

 surrounding country is poor, and the small farmers 

 close by who are trying to grow crops or vegetables 

 with irrigation from these springs must have a 

 hard struggle. I completed my plant and stock 

 in Windhuk, with the purchase of a small second- 

 hand wagon, sixteen donkeys, two horses, and 

 two mules, the two latter, as it turned out, being 

 the best of all my purchases. 



By good luck, also, I picked up a driver — a 

 Transkei Kaffir called Charlie — a big fellow with 

 a good open face, the real African black, much to 

 be preferred to any native showing a white cross. 

 Charlie could speak a fair amount of English, 

 enough for our daily needs. But he never could 

 grasp the difference between " this " and " that/' 

 and always mixed up those much-used terms. I 

 remember one night, going down the Okavango, 

 we heard the roar of two lions some little way off, 

 and I asked Charlie, who was awake, which side 



