EN ROUTE 23 



sullenness and depression of the native population 

 was apparent. The British, no doubt, have had 

 their own difficulties in ruling subject races, and 

 critics can point to risings in India, Egypt, and 

 South Africa against British rule. Nevertheless, 

 it remains true that the Germans were particularly 

 unhappy in their relations with the native peoples 

 of South-West Africa. 



When we were told that the roads up to the 

 Okavango would probably be closed from want 

 of water until it rained, there remained just a 

 chance that the road to Kuringkuru by Tsinsabis 

 might still be passable, and we elected to try that 

 road. By making a detour, which took us a few 

 days out of the road, I was enabled to visit several 

 pioneer farms on the way, and to accept the hos- 

 pitality courteously offered by German farmers. 



The want of a few good bullock bells for the 

 donkeys at night was now brought home to us, for 

 twice they wandered away and thereby made us 

 miss the trek for the following day. 



Eight days later we were at Tsinsabis ; outside 

 the last farms and with nothing before us but 

 bush to the Okavango. Our difficulties began 

 at Tsinsabis, for we were faced with the prospect 

 of 120 miles of a dry stage without water ; though 

 according to report there was reasonable hope 

 that a little water might be left about thirty-five 

 miles up the road in two big vleys, called Gumtsas 

 and Gumtsaup. This meant a ride ahead to learn 

 the truth of the report; and so, after fixing up 



