40S SCIENCE OF GARDENING. Part II. 



1 ot with earth, press it gently all round with the hand to settle It moderately firm in every part, and to 

 steady the upright posture of the plant, raising the earth, however, within about half an inch, or less, or 

 the top of the pot. It will soon settle lower, and thereby leave a void space at top, which is necessary to 

 receive occasional waterings. As soon as the plant is thus potted, give directly a moderate watering to 

 settle the earth more effectually close about all the roots, and promote their shooting into the new earth j 

 repeating the waterings as occasion requires. 



2104. Transplanting potted plants from one pot to another is called shifting; and is 

 performed with the whole ball of earth contained in the pot entire, so as to preserve the 

 plant in its growing state. 



105. The method of removing them out of the pots with balls is generally easily effected. Sometimes in small 

 plants it is performed by turning the pot upside down, and striking the edge against the side of a bench, 

 or edge of the boards of a wheelbarrow, or the like, when the ball comes out entire ; or occasionally a plant 

 that is very well rooted, and whose numerous fibres surround the outside of the ball, will readily quit 

 the pot by drawing it by the stem. But if, by either of the above methods, the ball will not readily 

 quit the pot, thrust a narrow thin slip of wood down all round the pot, when the ball will come 

 out by the process of striking the edge of the pot, with the greatest facility. Sometimes, however, the 

 bellied form of the pot, and the luxuriance of the roots which circulate between the pot and earth, pre- 

 vent the possibility of removing the ball entire; in which case, either that circumstance must be dispensed 

 with, or the pot be broken. 



2106. In replanting in larger pots, the first step regards the management of the numerous fibres which sur- 

 round the outside ball. When these are not numerous, the general practice is to leave them untouched ; 

 but when they are so abundant as to form a sort of matted coat, like the inside of a bird's nest all around, 

 then the practice is to trim the greater part of them off close to the ball, both on the sides and bottom, 

 together with some of the outward old earth of the ball ; then having the pots of proper sizes, larger than 

 the former ones, and having secured the holes at bottom, and put in some fresh compost, deposit the plant 

 with its entire ball in the pot, taking care that it stands in the centre, erect, and of the same depth as 

 before. Then fill up all the interstices round the ball with fresh mould, pressing it down, and ramming it 

 round the sides with a broad stick, adding more mould gradually, and raising it so as to cover the old ball, 

 and finish with a moderate watering, to settle the new earth close in every part. Hayward has sug- 

 gested the idea of a moveable bottom for more readily shifting potted plants with matted roots ; and we 

 have already (1412.) described the orange-boxes used at Versailles, and by Mean at Wormsleybury, by 

 which fresh earth can be put to the sides of the largest plants with little trouble. 



2107. Transplanting with balls is to be avoided in the case of diseased plants, unless it be evident that the 

 disease has no connection with the ball of earth and the roots. Very frequently, however, the diseases of 

 plants in pots arise from the want of a proper vent for the water, and from their having had too much 

 given them ; hence in transplanting such plants, it is eligible to shake the .whole entirely out of the earth, 

 in order to examine its roots, and trim off all decayed and other bad parts ; then having a fresh pot, and 

 some entire new compost, replant as already directed. 



2108. In potting plants from the open ground, or beds of earth on dung, or otherwise, if they have been 

 previously pricked out at certain distances, and have stood long enough to fix their roots firmly, they 

 may be moved into pots with balls, by the proper use of the trowel, transplanter, or hollow spade. Seed- 

 lings, however, cannot often be raised with balls, and are therefore planted in the smallest-sized pots first, 

 and gradually removed into larger ones with their balls entire. 



2109. Plants in pots are never shifted directly from small into large pots, but always into a size only one 

 gradation larger than that in which they are. Experience proves that this is the best mode, and also that 

 plants, in general, thrive best in small pots. The reason seems to be that, in large pots, the roots are apt 

 to be chilled and rotted by the retention of more water than is requisite for their wellbeing. 



Subsect. 3. Pruning. 

 2110. The amputation of part of a plant with the knife, or other instrument, is practised 

 for various purposes, but chiefly on trees, and more especially on those of the fruit-bear- 

 ing kinds. Of two adjoining and equal-sized branches of the same tree, if the one be cut 

 off', that remaining will profit by the sap which would have nourished the other, and both 

 the leaves and the fruits which it may produce will exceed their natural size. If part of 

 a branch be cut off which would have carried a number of fruits, those which remain will 

 set, or fix better, and become larger. On the observation of these facts is founded the 

 whole theory of pruning ; which, though like many other operations of art, cannot be 

 said to exist very obviously in nature, is yet the most essential of all operations for the 

 culture of fruit-trees. 



2111. The objects of pruning may be reduced to the following : promoting growth and bulk; lessening 

 bulk ; modifying form ; promoting the formation of blossom-buds ; enlarging fruit ; adjusting the stem 

 and branches to the roots ; renewal of decayed plants or trees ; and removal or cure of t" 



2112. Pruning for promoting the growth and bulk of a tree is the simplest object of pruning, and is 

 that chiefly which is employed by nursery-men with young trees of every description. The art is to cut 

 off all the weak lateral shoots, that the portion of sap destined for their nourishment may be thrown into 

 the strong ones. In some cases, besides cutting off" the weak shoots, the strong ones are shortened, in 

 order to produce three or four shoots instead of one. In general, mere bulk being the object, upright 

 shoots are encouraged rather than lateral ones ; excepting in the case of trained trees, where shoots are 

 encouraged at all angles, from the horizontal to the perpendicular, but more especially at the medium of 

 45 degrees. In old trees, this object is greatly promoted by the removal, with the proper instruments, of 

 the dead or already scaling off outer bark. 



2113. Pruning for lessening the bulk of the tree is also chiefly confined to nursery-practice, as neces- 

 sary to keep unsold trees of a portable size. It consists in little more than what" is technically called 

 heading down, that is cutting off the leading shoots within an inch or two of the main stem, leaving, in 

 some cases, some of the lower lateral shoots. Care is taken to cut to a leaf-bud (1885.), and to choose such 

 from among the side, upper, or under buds of the shoot according as the succeeding year's shoots may 

 be wanted, in radiated lines from the stem, or in oblique lines in some places to fill up vacancies. It 

 is evident that this unnatural operation persisted in for a few years must render the tree knotty and 

 unsightly, and in stone-fruits, at least, it is apt to generate canker and gum. 



2114. Pruning for modifying the form of the tree embraces the management of the plant from the 

 time of its propagation. Almost every tree has a different natural form, and in botanic and landscape 

 gardening it is seldom desirable to attempt altering these by pruning, or by any other operation. But in 

 rearing trees planted for timber, it is desirable to throw the timber produced, as much as possible, into 

 long compact masses ; and hence pruning is employed to remove the side branches, and encourage the 

 growth of the bole or stem. Where this operation is begun when the trees are young, it is easily performed 

 every two or three years, and the progress of the trees under it is most satisfactory ; when, however, it U 



