Book I. CULTURE OF THE VINERY. 549 



portioned to the vigor and age of the plant : one on each side, as near the bottom as it offers, with a 

 second, third, fourth, up to seven, at the distance of three feet, if the plant is in its fourth summer, but 

 only five, at the distance of four feet, if this be the third summer since the plant was struck. Train the 

 shoots reserved on each side the rafter, tying them" to the trellis with strands of matting. Leave on each 

 branch two bunches, or a single bunch ; according as the plant is in the fourth or third season from its 

 origin : pinch off the others. Afterwards stop the bearing laterals at the second joint above the fruit 

 Rub off water-shoots from the older wood. Pinch off'inferior laterals and tendrils." 



2990. Xicol observes that most of the summer pruning of vines may be performed with the fingers, with- 

 out a knife, " the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off, and those to be shortened, being brittle, 

 are readily pinched asunder." After selecting the shoots to be trained for the production of a crop next 

 season, and others necessary for filling the trellis from the bottom, which shoots should generally be laid 

 in at the distance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other, rub off all the others that have no clus- 

 ters, and shorten those that have at one joint above the uppermost cluster. For this purpose, go over the 

 plants every three or four days, till all the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters ; at the same time 

 rubbing off any water-shoots that may rise from the old wood. 



2991. Train in the shoots to be retained, as they advance ; using strands of fresh matting, and allowing 

 sufficient room in the ties for the swelling of the shoots. Likewise pinch off all laterals and tendrils, every 

 time you go over the plants, as these only tend to confusion, and take greatly from the strength of the 

 clusters. 



2992. If there be an under trellis, on which to train the summer shoots, they may, when six or eight feet 

 in length, or when the grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that the fruit may enjoy the full air and light, 

 as it advances towards maturity. Such of these shoots as issue from the bottom, and are to be shortened 

 in the winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for the production of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped 

 when they have grown to the length of four or five feet Others that are intended to be cut down to 

 about two yards, and which issue at different heights, maybe stopped when they have run three yards or 

 ten feet, less or more, according to their strength. And those intended to be cut at, or near to, the top of 

 the house, should be trained a yard or two down the back wall (a trellis being placed against it purposely) ; 

 or they may be run right or left a few feet on the uppermost wire. 



2993. In order to be a good trainer of vines, and be able to provide for a crop the following 

 season, a man must have some forethought, and be capable of making his selections, as the plants shoot, 

 even at this distance of time. He must predetermine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut, at 

 the end of the season ; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to his mind. He has this- more effectually 

 in his power, with respect to the vine, than any other fruit-tree, on account of its rapid growth and 

 docility. 



2994. The stubs, or short shoots, on which the clusters are placed, will probably push again after being 

 stopped, if the plants be vigorous. If so, stop them again and again ; but after the fruit are half grown, 

 they will seldom spring. Observe to divest the shoots, in training, of all laterals as they appear, except 

 the uppermost on each ; in order to provide against accidents, as hinted at above, in training the new- 

 planted vines. When these shoots are stopped, as directed above, they will push again. Allow the lateral 

 that pushes to run a few joints, and then shorten it back to one ; and so on, as it pushes, until it stop 

 entirely. When the proper shoot gets ripened nearly to the top, the whole may be cut back to the origi- 

 nally shortened part, or to one joint above it, if there be reason to fear that the uppermost bud of the pro- 

 per shoot will start. 



2995. Divest the plants of all damped or decayed leaves, as they appear, as such will sometimes occur in 

 continued hazy weather ; and some may be bruised by the glass, in moving the sashes for the admission 

 of air, or by other accidents. 



2996. Hat/ward, in the summer primings, takes off all collaterals as they arise, and any shoots which, 

 though laid in for fruit, turn out unproductive, that the whole strength of the tree may be properly ap- 

 plied. {Hart. Trans, vol. i. 172.) 



2997. Mearns in his summer pruning stops the bearing branches at the bunch, instead of the next joint 

 above it, which is the usual practice ; " for I found that the fruit did equally well, and it divested the 

 branch of an incumbrance, while it allowed a much larger portion of light to come into the house, together 

 with a more free circulation of air among the fruit and young wood. I blind all the eyes on each fruit- 

 spur as soon as they push, except the uppermost, which I retain, to draw up the sap to nourish the fruit : 

 I never suffer them to push above a joint or two before I pinch them back, always cautiously retaining an 

 eye, and am particularly cautious that nothing should happen to injure the leaf that accompanies the 

 bunch, for if that is lost, the fruit of course will come to nothing." (Hort. Trans, iv. 255.) 



2998. Thimiing the leaves and fruit. " Every one of penetration and discernment," 

 Nicol observes, " will admit the utility of thinning the berries on bunches of grapes, in 

 order that they may have room to swell fully ; and further, that of supporting the 

 shoulders of such clusters of the large-growing kinds as hang loosely, and require to be 

 suspended to the trellis or branches, in order to prevent the bad effects of damp or 

 mouldiness in over-moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, royal mus- 

 cadine, raisin, St. Peter's, Syrian, Tokay, and others, should have their shoulders sus- 

 pended to the trellis, or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the berries 

 are about the size of garden-peas. At the same time, the clusters should be regularly 

 thinned out, with narrow pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third 

 part of the berries. The other close-growing kinds, as the Frontignacs, muscats, &c, 

 should likewise be moderately thinned ; observing to thin out the small seedless ber- 

 ries only of the muscadine, sweetwater, and flame-colored Tokay. In this manner, 

 handsome bunches and full-swelled berries may be obtained ; but more so, if the clus- 

 ters on over-burdened plants be also moderately thinned away. Indeed, cutting off 

 the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants over-loaded and pushing weak wood, is the 

 only means by which to cause them to produce shoots fit to bear fruit next year ; and 

 this should be duly attended to, so long as the future welfare of the plants is a matter 

 of importance." 



2999. Remedies for bleeding. " If the pruning has been timely, the vine is not liable 

 to bleed. When the sap rises before the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and is not 

 easily stopped. This retards the plant ; and, out of; doors, the loss of a few days is, 

 in some seasons, irreparable : but in other respects, the consequences of bleeding are 

 not so disastrous as many seem to apprehend ; and a gardener is sometimes surprised 

 by a subsequent crop of uncommon goodness. Innumerable remedies for bleeding have 

 been proposed : the following rank among the best. Sear the place, and cover it with 



Nn 3 



