Book II. TULIP. 833 



one eighth sea-sand, well incoqwrated, and laid in a bed, or stratum, for the plants, two feet deep." (7V. 

 .>; the Carnation, Auricula, Tulip, &c. 142.) 



6*251. Planting. The most proper time is from the end of October to the tenth of No- 

 vember. On the day made choice of for planting, rake the surface of the bed smooth 

 and even, still preserving its convexity, and mark the exact situation for every root upon 

 it. The proper distance between each root is seven inches from centre to centre ; and if 

 the rows are seven inches asunder, the roots will form squares of similar diameter on all 

 parts of the bed. A bed consisting of seven rows makes the noblest appearance, when 

 it is of sufficient length, with a path round it about two and a half or three feet wide ; but 

 where the number of roots is small five rows may suffice, and the path, in that case, may 

 either extend quite round the bed, or only on one side, at pleasure. If, therefore, the bed 

 consists of seven rows, it should consequently be fifty inches wide, which will allow a space 

 of four inches between the outside rows and the sides of the bed ; but if the bed contains 

 only five rows, it will only require to be three feet wide, to give the roots similar distances. 

 Having sprinkled a little clean sand where the roots are to be set, place them with great 

 exactness and add some very sandy earth, so as to completely envelope each root in a lit- 

 tle cone of it; then cover the whole very carefully with strong, sound, fresh loam, about 

 four inches thick at the middle of the bed, gradually decreasing as it approaches the sides, 

 where it should be about three inches thick ; thus will the convexity of the surface be in- 

 creased in a proper degree, and the roots will be covered with soil, to a depth propor- 

 tionate to their size and strength ; the largest and strongest having been placed in the cen- 

 tre rows, and the smaller and weaker on those of the outside. No tulip-root, whatever 

 may be its size or strength, should be planted more than four inches deep from the upper 

 side of the root ; nor should any blooming root be planted less than two and a half or 

 three inches deep, however small it may be. The soil made use of for covering the bulbs 

 shoidd be frequently turned over, and thoroughly exposed to the sun and air, some time 

 before it is made use of, that it may be rendered perfectly sweet and free from the acrid qua- 

 lity that most soils are suhject to, when taken considerably below the surface. But if the 

 bed is only to contain five rows, with a path in the front, and none behind, then it will be 

 proper to plant the smallest and lowest growing roots in the front, next the path, and so 

 gradually to increase in the size of the roots to the fifth or last row, which should con- 

 tain the strongest and largest of all ; when the roots are properly covered with soil, as 

 before directed, the surface of the bed will slope one way, forming an inclined plane : it 

 will be necessary to support its. highest side at least with boards or brick- work, otherwise 

 the earth would be liable to crumble down and leave the roots bare or too shallow. 



6252. Future culture and management. " When the operation of planting is concluded, the bed may be 

 hooped over, and taken care of, in the manner directed for hyacinths, i. e. so as to preserve it from very 

 heavy rains, and severe frosts ; but either one or the other, in moderation, will be of more service than 

 injury to it. By the end of February every plant in health will be visible above ground ; some tall early 

 sorts will be two or three inches high, others one inch, and the latter sorts just making their annearance ; 

 indeed, a very few remarkably late sorts may be a week longer before they appear, but not more : if, on 

 examination, any distemper or canker is discernible on the foliage, about this time, either a!>cve or an 

 inch or two below the surface of the soil, it should be carefully cut out with a sharp knife, and the 

 wounded part left exposed to the sun and air, which will presently "heal it : a fine dry day should be made 

 choice of for this operation. If the surface of the bed appears to be of too close and solid a contexture, it 

 should be carefully stirred up, about two inches deep, which will admit the air more freely, and prove, in 

 all re-rpects, very beneficial. By the end of April, some of the plants will probably be grown so tall as to 

 require the hoops to be raised alittle, to secure the blossom from injury : attention to this part must not 

 be omitted, for the blossom is very tender and likely to be bruised and disfigured, by a very slight blow, 

 or rub against the hoops. As'soon as anv of the earlier sorts begin to show color, they should be shaded 

 from the sun, for, when its heat is considerable, it will cause the colors to run and intermix, in such a 

 manner as to destroy the elegance and beautv of the flower ; some sorts are more particularly liable to 

 this effect than others, and will be spoiled in 'five minutes. When the greater part of the blossoms have 

 begun to open, a frame, or awning, should be erected over the bed and paths, nearly similar to that for 

 hvacinths fig. 591.] : that is to sav, so as to keep out rain, and admit as much light as possible ; this must 

 be thrown off, or rolled up, at every favorable opportunity, as directed for hyacinths, except that it should 

 be done rather earlier in the moaning, and later in the evening; because the sun has acquired a greater 

 degree of power at this season of the year than earlier. If these frequent exposures to the light and air be 

 omitted, the colors of the flowers will be faint and weak, and the grandeur of effect will be lost, o- consi- 

 derably lessened. The cloth covering should come down on each side, within about three feet of the 

 ground, to allow a free circulation of air, except in windy weather ; from the effects of which, the flowers 

 must be most carefully preserved, by a continuation of the covering quite down to the ground, on the 

 windv side ; a line of mats sewed together, and their upper edge nailed to the frame on that side, may 

 answer the purpose, if the cloth is not of sufficient length. Tulips never require to be artificially watered, 

 in the hottest and driest seasons, at any period from planting to taking up the roots ; nevertheless, mo- 

 derate rains mav always be admitted before, and id very small quantity after the bloom is over ; but early 

 in the spring, they are absolutely necessary, in order to procure a strong bloom. VVhen the awning is 

 erected, the hoops should be carefully taken away, the sides and ends of the bed should be neatly boarded 

 up, and the paths lowered two or three inches, to bring the flowers nearer to the eye : a slight frame, 

 about two feet high, should surround the bed, to prevent the garments of spectators from rubbing against^ 

 or breaking off the flowers ; lines of small twine, painted green, and corresponding with the rows of 

 flowers, should pass from one head of the bed to the other, fastened to the end pieces of the frame, and 

 stretched tight ; to these the stems of the flowers are to be loosely tied with short pieces of green worsted, 

 which will preserve a pleasing regularity of appearance, without stiffness and formality, lulips will bear 

 to be covered a longer time in bloom than most other flowers, without sustaining any considerable injury : 

 it may be continued three weeks with great safety. If any roots should perish, or fad to produce bloom, 

 the deficiency may be made good by transplanting, with the tube transplanter {fig. 93.), from a reserve- 

 bed, or the lower end of the stems of flowers, taken from the reserve-beds, may be immersed m phials, 

 filled with water, and sunk into the bed, so as not to appear above ground these will continue in bloom 



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