VI. LIST OF FRUITS. 



before the middle of February, a piece of a shoot which 

 came out the last summer : this cutting should, if con- 

 venient, have an inch or two of the last year's wood at the 

 bottom of it ; but this is by no means absolutely neces- 

 sary. The cutting should have four or five buds or joints : 

 make the ground rich, move it deep and make it fine. 

 Then put in the cutting with the setting stick, leaving 

 only two buds, or joints, above ground j fastening the 

 cutting well in the ground. Or, another, and, I think, 

 a better, way of propagating vines by cuttings, is, to take 

 in February, a bud of the last year's wood, cutting all 

 wood away except about half an inch above and half an 

 inch below the bud, and shaving off the bark, and a little 

 way into the wood straight down this inch-long piece, 

 only let this shaving be on the side opposite to the bud. 

 Bury the whole, two inches deep in a largish pot filled 

 with good mould, keeping the bud in an upright position. 

 Do not mind covering the bud over 5 it will shoot up 

 through the mould, and the place behind it, from which 

 you cut out the slice of bark and wood, will send out 

 vigorous roots ; and then, as to keeping it cool, 

 see CUTTINGS, under the head of Propagation, in 

 this Chapter. As to the training and pruning of vines, I 

 have in my book on American Gardening, given instruc- 

 tions for the performing of this work in the espalier 

 form. The very same instructions apply to ,walls and to 

 houses, and also to roofs, seeing that, on roofs, it is 

 merely a trellis-work lying in a sloping attitude. I have 

 supposed anew plantation of vines to be made expressly 

 for espalier training j and, with several sorts of grapes, 

 this method would succeed perfectly well in the south of 

 England, in warm spots and at no great distance from 



