THE RASPBERRY. 119 



Annually, the ground should be fertilized with well- 

 rotted stable manure, applied along the rows, supple- 

 mented with a generous application of ground bone 

 and wood ashes or ground bone and muriate of potash. 

 The manure will not do any harm, no matter how lib- 

 erally it may be applied. The ground bone may safely 

 reach 600 pounds to the acre, and the muriate of potash 

 200 pounds to the acre, in addition to the stable manure. 

 To fail in the matter of fertilizing raspberries is to bid 

 for small-sized fruit. Keep the middle of the row 

 well cultivated ; not too deeply. 



I have tried the plan of removing all the old canes 

 at the end of the bearing season, and also the plan of 

 taking out the old wood in the early spring. It is, 

 perhaps, a matter of convenience as to which plan is 

 the better. Both are feasible. It is good practice to dis- 

 courage the growth of suckers in the summer months. 

 Suckers are the shoots which come up from the roots. 

 Only a few of the earlier and stronger ones should be 

 left to mature for the next year's bearing canes. All 

 others should be cut off with a hoe. 



Never trim in the fall; but there is no real objection 

 to taking out old canes in the fall. This is not trim- 

 ming, but cleaning. Trimming is shortening the bear- 

 ing canes, and should be done in spring, after it is known 

 whether there has been any winter killing, which is 

 usually wind killing. Canes partially winter killed, 

 and trimmed down to within a foot of the ground in 

 spring, may yet produce a good crop of fruit. 



Raspberries are multiplied by suckers, by the 

 rooting of the tips in case of blackcaps, or by root 

 cuttings. It is easy to make root cuttings, as it is 

 only necessary to cut the roots into short pieces, with 



