THE CURRANT. 131 



be done as soon as the leaves fall. One-third of the 

 growth of the year should be removed, and the canes 

 or branches thinned, if over-crowded. As the bush 

 attains size two-thirds of the new growth is not too 

 much to be removed yearly. 



The currant does not come true from seed, and 

 new plants are propagated by layering and by cut- 

 tings. A cool, moist soil is necessary for starting 

 cuttings, and shade is essential also. The cuttings 

 are made in the early part of September, about seven 

 inches long, from new growth. The cuttings are set 

 in rows three feet apart and five inches apart in the 

 rows. The soil should be firmly packed around the 

 cuttings, which should be buried, slightly leaning, 

 with about an inch out of the ground. They will 

 soon throw out roots, and will be ready to start into 

 vigorous growth in the spring. If moved in the 

 spring they should be taken out of the ground early, 

 as they are quick to begin to make shoots. 



Gooseberries and currants, which are closely allied 

 botanically, are low trees rather than bushes, and 

 gooseberries often naturally assume a tree-like habit 

 of growth. 



Propagation by layering is effected by bending 

 down vigorous young branches and partially burying 

 them in the earth, leaving the tops out. Roots are 

 quickly thrown out, and in the fall the new plant may 

 be severed from the parent stem and treated as an 

 independent bush. 



The stem of the currant is subject to the attacks of 

 two kinds of borers. The remedy for both is to cut 

 out and burn all affected branches. Their work is 

 sometimes shown by the premature death of the 



