PERENNIAL PLANTS. 195 



applied with a garden syringe ; test it before applying to ascertain if it 

 cornea off easily, as it sometimes sticks on longer than wanted. 



Planting in the House. This is a practice which has become common 

 during the last few years, that is, putting the plants into the green- 

 house beds instead of planting out of doors. It haq its advantages and 

 disadvantages. In the Winter months the cut is much larger than that 

 from field grown plants housed late in the season, but this advantage 

 is to a certain extent offset by having to discard the old plants in May 

 or earlier to make room for the new ones and were all the carnations 

 planted after this method there would be no flowers during the Summer 

 mouths, therefore both methods will continue to have their advocates. 



Soil This should be of a friable loam, mixed thoroughly sometimein 

 advance of using with one-fifth of its bulk of rotted stable manure. The 

 depth of soil may be from 4 to 5 inches. The plants are given space 

 according to the variety. In this connection it may be stated that a 

 good place to look for the kind of flower common 25 years ago is on a 

 bench, the soil of which is completely hidden by the plants. As much 

 light as possible should be admitted to all parts of the plant, and it is 

 as important that air should have free circulation among the plants. 



Supports The different methods are getting to be about as numerous 

 as the varieties of Carnations. A good circular wire support should be 

 easy to apply, easily removed and stored, give the minimum amount 

 of shade to the plants and be moderate in cost. Several of the designs 

 on the market are satisfactory in all of the above particulars, excepting 

 the cost, which, while as low as one could expect, is the only hindrance 

 to their use. 



Temperature A minimum temperature of 50 degrees, rising during 

 thj day to 65 degrees, will be found the proper range for the best r e suits 

 The humidity of the atmosphere must be greatest immediately after the 

 plants are benched to induce the formation of new feeding roots, grad- 

 ually reducing it when the plants show signs of having become estab- 

 lished. 



Syringing In dull weather there is usually enough moisture in the 

 atmosphere for the needs of the plants, so far as atmospheric conditions 

 are concerned. In bright, sunny weather, syringing should, of course, 

 be more frequently practiced. No rules can be laid down for this, how- 

 ever, as much depends upon the nature of the floor of the house in the 

 quantity of moisture it gives off, together with the condition of the 

 bench soil. If the atmosphere be too dry, combined with dryness at the 

 roots, the foliage suffers to a certain extent, producing conditions favor- 

 able for the attacks of red spider, aphides and fungoid diseases. To 

 strike the happy medium good judgment as the result of close observa- 

 tion will be necessary. 



Feeding The plants by their behavior will suggest the necessity for 

 this. When manure is given in the liquid state it should be weak and 

 applied often rather than in strong doses at long intervals. Top-dress- 

 ing with manures and fertilizers should be made the subject ot careful 

 experiment. It is not safe to follow given rules, as what may suit some 

 soils will not act the same way with others. 



Disbudding The lateral buds should be removed as soon ns they are 

 l^rge enough to be handled. If allowed to develop, they are simply a 

 drain on the resources of the terminal bud; and, although they look 

 well with the flower, still large flowers without them bring higher prices. 



Ventilation is of primary importance at all times. The TIOUSPS ought to 

 be closed only whtn the outside temperature is too low to permit of airing. 



