250 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY 



several rapids, and in the evening encamped about fifteen miles 

 below the mouth of the Utalla river. 



This running of rapids appears rather a dangerous business 

 to those unaccustomed to it, and it is in reality sufficiently hazard- 

 ous, except when performed by old and skilful hands. Every 

 thing depends upon the men who manage the bow and stern of 

 the boat. The moment she enters the rapid, the two guides lay 

 aside their oars taking in their stead paddles, such as ai-e used 

 in the management of a canoe. The middle-men ply their oars; 

 the guides brace themselves against the gunwale of the boat, 

 placing their paddles edgewise down her sides, and away she 

 goes over the curling, foaming, and hissing waters, like a race 

 horse. 



We passed to-day several large lodges of Indians, from whom 

 we wished to have purchased fish, but they had none, or were 

 not willing to spare any, so that we were compelled to purchase 

 a dog for supper. I have said we, but I beg leave to correct my- 

 self, as I was utterly averse to the proceeding ; not, however, 

 from any particular dislike to the quality of the food, (I have 

 eaten it repeatedly, and relished it,) but I am always unwilling, 

 unless when suffering absolute want, to take the life of so noble 

 and faithful an animal. Our hungry oarsmen, however, appeared 

 to have no such scruples. The Indian called his dog, and he 

 came to him, wagging his tail ! He sold his companion for ten 

 balls and powder! One of our men approached the poor animal 

 with an axe. I turned away my head to avoid the sight, but I 

 heard the dull, sodden sound of the blow. The tried friend and 

 faithful companion lay quivering in the agonies of death at its 

 master's feet. 



We are enjoying a most magnificent sight at our camp this 

 evening. On the opposite side of the river, the Indians have 

 fired the prairie, and the whole country for miles around is most 

 brilliantly illuminated. Here am I sitting cross-legged on the 



