28 E1GGLE GARDEN BOOK 



about half well-rotted manure and half soil, and the 

 addition of some bone meal. A thin layer of fine 

 soil is placed on top, making each flat level full and 

 soil quite firm. The flat is now ready to plant. 



The transplanting board, see illustration, is 

 placed over the flat, resting on a box or table of con- 

 venient height. (This 

 transplanting board can 



^?l = lll\V\\vV:ii^ easily be made of sound 

 lumber, cleated at the 

 R. L. WATTS' TRANSPLANTING ends with strips. The 



BOARD AND DIBBER, 



enough to cover the flat, 



as shown. Holes are bored at the required dis- 

 tances with a three-quarter-inch bit. For cabbage, 

 tomato, lettuce and most other plants the holes should 

 be about two inches apart for the first transplanting. 

 Of course, the holes can be made with an ordinary 

 stick or dibber, and without the aid of this board; 

 but the board is certainly a help when many plants 

 are grown.) Place the left hand on the board, hold- 

 ing it firmly, and with the right hand and special- 

 shaped dibber (the dibber should work freely), 

 punch the holes in the soil ready to receive the 

 plants. If the soil contains just the right amount of 

 moisture (which can be regulated by sprinkling and 

 mixing before placing board on top of the flat), no 

 trouble will be encountered in making the holes or in 

 transplanting. One boy will punch the holes as fast 

 as six or eight can plant. Boys drop a plant in each 

 hole, and a man can fasten roots very rapidly. If 

 the soil contains the proper amount of moisture, 

 little or no watering is necessary immediately after 

 transplanting. 



When these flats are placed in the frames very 



