SMALL FRUITS 169 



then cultivate the soil back into place. Then treat 

 the bed the same as the first year. When it has 

 borne two crops, better plow it under. 



The foregoing well-known method is what is 

 called the "narrow matted row" system. Of course 

 in a small garden, for hoe cultivation only, the rows 

 might be closer together say three feet and a half 

 apart. 



Sometimes the "wide matted row" method is 

 used allowing the plant row to become two or 

 three feet wide. Then, last but not least, there's the 

 "hill system" of culture setting the plants about fif- 

 teen inches apart in rows about three feet apart, 

 for horse cultivation, or in two-foot rows for hoe 

 work only. Blossoms are kept off and all runners 

 are promptly and regularly cut off all through the 

 growing season, and the plants, not being exhausted 

 by runner, blossom or fruit bearing, put all their 

 strength into themselves and grow big, sturdy and 

 bushy. Apply a mulch when the ground freezes, 

 and look for a fine crop of extra-fancy berries the 

 following June. This method requires high culture 

 and fertilization to produce satisfactory results. Oc- 

 casional applications of nitrate of soda the first sea- 

 son, and again the following spring after growth 

 starts, are helpful. (Nitrate of soda is useful in 

 any system of strawberry growing. See Chapter 

 IV.) 



Some folks advocate setting strawberries in 

 August or early September. I prefer spring-set beds, 

 but if you must set in the fall, use pot-grown plants 

 and begin to prepare the ground a few weeks ahead 

 of planting time. Plow it early so that it will have 

 a chance to settle. Harrow or rake it often, to keep 

 down weeds and conserve moisture. Then the bed 



