SMALL FRUITS 175 



practicable in a small patch. A cover crop is some- 

 times sown at the last cultivation, for turning un- 

 der in early spring. Do not plow the ground (after 

 it is planted) deeper than three inches; cultivate 

 about two inches deep; hand-hoe between plants 

 where the cultivator can not go. Do not let plants 

 produce fruit the first season ; a small crop may be 

 expected the following year; a full crop the third 

 year. 



Pruning: The first year, none. After that, 

 cut out (close to the ground) all old canes each 

 summer as soon as they have fruited. At the same 

 time, cut out surplus canes (when the rows get too 

 thick) and diseased or feeble canes. Remove and 

 burn the cuttings, promptly. Don't let the rows 

 get too wide or too thick, but be sure to leave enough 

 new shoots for next year's fruiting. In the early 

 spring go through the patch again ; cut out all 

 broken or winter-killed canes or branches, shorten 

 remaining canes to four or five feet, and cut off at 

 least a third or half of each long side-shoot. Rake 

 up and burn all brush. (NOTE: There is another 

 pruning detail which is practised by some growers, 

 called "summer pruning" or "pinching." This con- 

 sists of pinching off the tip ends of all new shoots 

 when they are not more than two feet high the idea 

 being to make the canes stocky and more self-sup- 

 porting, with low side-branches. This method has 

 advantages and disadvantages ; some growers greatly 

 favor it, while others condemn it and say that it often 

 causes too much late, tender growth that winter- 

 kills in the North. It seems to work better with 

 blackcaps and blackberries, than with red raspber- 

 ries.) If the canes are properly pruned, no supports 

 should be needed; although in small gardens it is 



