48 



BIGGIE ORCHARD BOOK 



for awhile. But if there is already sufficient wood 

 growth, why prune at a time that forces more of it? 

 Stop and think a bit. 



GENERAL Rui,ES FOR PRUNING. Never cut away 

 more wood than is necessary to obtain the end in 

 view. Err on the side of cutting too little rather than 

 too much, for if too much is taken off it can not be 

 replaced in many years. Large crops of fruit can not 

 be grown on trees with a few exposed branches. Cut 

 out all dead wood as soon as it is discovered. If two 

 branches rub together so as to injure one another, the 

 weaker should be cut away. If one branch rests on 

 the top of another, one should be removed. Head 

 back and thin out the top rather than cut off the lower 

 branches, so as to bring the fruit as low 

 as possible, on account of thinning, 

 spraying, and harvesting. Never 

 remove entire side branches if it can 

 be avoided. If it must be done, cut 

 as shown in Fig. I ; thus the tree is 

 PRUNING A SIDE trimmed up for horse cultivation with- 

 BRANCH oirt sacr i nc i n g the whole of main limb. 

 All cuts should be left as smooth as 

 possible ; and all wounds more than one- 

 half inch in diameter ought to be covered 

 with a coat of thick linseed oil paint, 

 to keep out dampness and prevent rot 

 while Nature is healing the cut. 



Never leave a stub. Cut close, yet 

 not too close. (See Fig. II.) 



Cut out suckers on a tree whenever 

 you see them. Also, watch for and cut 



