TEARAN 225 



soldiers." The Mandalla were very curious about 

 our visit. None had ever seen a white man ; they 

 had heard he was a bogie to be protected from, and 

 yet here was a party paying its way and offering no 

 violence to person or feelings ! 



At Tearan I sent my boy to discover for me what 

 the women sing as they thump the grain in wooden 

 mortars with big six foot by four inch decorated poles. 

 The air was quite pretty. I am able to add this gem 

 to the poetry of the world. " Two thousand (grains 

 of corn) bang 2000 ; 2000 cry there is no God but 

 God." I almost wish I had let well alone, for when 

 I come across that number, even prosaically placed 

 on the back of a motor car, the refrain buzzes through 

 my head and won't leave it. 



From Tearan I went by a round-about way to the 

 Bahr el Arab, as all declared that the direct route was 

 too droughty. I came back by the latter. Umbegago, 

 our first halting -place, was reached at dusk. The 

 sheikh and his friends were having a friendly chat 

 before going to bed, and took no notice of my entry, 

 whereupon the guide from Tearan, where I had made 

 great friends of the sheikh, dashed among them 

 demanding where their manners were, &c. I laugh- 

 ingly called him off. The poor sheikh had never 

 heard of an inspector, and though the soul of polite- 

 ness and hospitality, was not much impressed when 

 he did, I fancy. 



At Umbegago I split up my party. I took with 

 me a few men and Sheikh Abdulahi, who wished to 

 inspect his brother's cattle at our destination. Sheikh 



P 



