134 History of Nature. [BOOK IX. 



are distinguished by two Beards on the lower Lip. The worst 

 of all this kind is called Lutarius. 1 And this Fish hath an- 

 other, named Sargus, which always beareth him Company ; 

 and while he is digging into the Mud, the Sargus devoureth 

 the Food that is raised up. Neither are those which keep 

 near the Shore in Favour. But these that are in highest 

 Regard taste like the (Shell-fish) Conchy Hum. Fenestella 

 thinks, that the Name Mullus was given them because their 

 Colour resembles that of the purplish-red Shoes. They 

 spawn three Times in the Year ; for so often their Young 

 are certainly seen. The principal Epicures say, that a Mul- 

 lus, when dying, changeth his Colour, which may be seen to 

 take a great Variety of Tints ; passing from pale by a Variety 

 of Mutations to glowing red all over his Scales, particularly 

 if it be looked at as he is held in a Glass. M. Apicius, who 

 was wonderful for every Ingenuity that belonged to Luxury, 

 thought it a most excellent Improvement to stifle them in 

 the Sauce of the Allies, for this Thing also hath found a Sur- 

 name. And he also incited them to contrive a Pickle made 

 from their Livers. For surely it is more easy to say this than 

 to set down who excelled in it. Asturius Celer, a Man of 

 consular Rank, showed his Prodigality in this Fish, for 

 when C. Caligula was Sovereign, he gave for one Mullet 

 eight thousand Sesterces : the Consideration of which car- 

 rieth far away my Mind to the Contemplation of those who, 

 in their Reproof of Luxury, complained that a Cook was 

 purchased at a greater Price than a Horse. For now a Cook 

 will cost as much as the Expense of a Triumph ; and Fishes 

 are as dear as Cooks. And no mortal Man is esteemed more 

 than he who hath the most Skill to waste the Goods and 

 consume the Property of his Lord. 



1 Probably Trigla lineata : a fish which has much the habits of the 

 Mullus, and is often taken in the same net ; on which account, and some 

 resemblance of form, it was called by the older naturalists, Mullus imberbis. 

 Wern. Club. 



