CHAPTER II 



East Africa 



We joined the s.s. Bardistan, en route for South 

 Africa, on March 27th, 1909. Down to the time we 

 reached Suez the trip was Hke any other — rough 

 weather in the Bay of Biscay, fairly decent weather 

 afterwards. Once we were in the Red Sea, however, 

 matters were different, for our steamer called at 

 several of those places where the ordinary traveller 

 does not go. 



In Port Sudan we saw some of the celebrated 

 Fuzzy Wuzzies, the only tribe which can boast of 

 having broken a British square. They are a fine race 

 with good features. They are always laughing, but 

 their chief feature is their extraordinary heads of hair. 

 The hair is very long, fuzzy on top, and at the back is 

 twisted into countless numbers of curls, Hke those of 

 our grandmothers ; into it all they rub mutton fat 

 and all sorts of unsavoury things. This style of head- 

 dress suits them splendidly. They are rather super- 

 stitious, and run away if they see a camera in your 

 hand. However, by careful stalking I managed to get 



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