54 



THE OKANGE, 



part. It is easier for the tree to make new 

 I roots than to heal up old ones. 



DEPTB- The tree should be planted the 

 same depth that it was in nursery. 



FILLING. I have found it best to fill the 

 hole only about half full, leaving a basin 

 to receive water and then complete the 

 filling after irrigation. 



SETTLING THE EARTH. It is not neces- 

 sary to spend time tramping the earth 

 down upon the roots, as the water to be 

 applied will settle it more effectually than 

 it is possible to do with the foot. 



IRRIGATING. Citrus trees should al- 

 ways be irrigated as soon as planted. Run 

 the basin at each tree full, and after the 

 water has soaked away, fill in with dry 

 earth, which prevents evaporation. 



STRAIGHTENING UP. When all are 

 planted go through the orchard and right 

 up such trees as may be found leaning. 



ADDITIONAL PRUNING. If the tree 

 shows a tendency to wilt, it is a good plan 

 to prune it still|further, even cutting away 

 to a few leaves or none at all. 



INDICATIONS. If a tree wilts and the 

 leaves cling to their stems, becoming dry 

 and dead, the chances are that the tree is 

 lost. If the leaves drop off, the tree will 

 almost surely put forth new ones. 



WASHING THE TREES. If the trees are 

 infested with any sort of scale or smut, 

 wash them thoroughly with soap suds, 

 scrubbing the stocks and spraying the 

 tops. It is but fair to give them a clean 

 start. 



WRAPPING THE STOCKS. If rabbits or 

 rodents are apt to prove troublesome, it is 

 a good plan to wrap the stocks with paper 

 and tie lightly with twine. This keeps 

 the animals from gnawing the bark. The 

 wrapping is also a good protection to the 

 young and tender stocks against the hot 

 sun. Some people whitewash their trees 

 instead of wrapping them and are well 

 pleased with the result. 



DESIGNATING VARIETIES. If you plant 

 several varieties of trees, the best way to 

 keep track of them is to make a diagram 

 of the orchard in some convenient book 

 of record, designating varieties by num- 

 bered rows. Tags on trees are a nuisance, 

 and besides, soon become weather-worn 

 and obliterated. The same is true of let- 

 ered stakes in the orchard ground. 



LOST TIME. The orange tree in trans- 

 planting loses a year's growth; this under 

 the most favorable circumstances. I do 

 not mean to say that it utterly fails to grow 

 the first year after removal, but that the 

 check which it sustains reduces its aver- 

 age size to that of trees a year younger, 

 not transplanted. 



NEW GROWTH. At the next succeeding 

 season of growth, if the conditions are all 

 favorable, the tree puts forth new shoots 

 from the stock and branches. Often these 

 shoots make their first appearance upon 

 the stock, and cover it with a thick growth 

 down to the very ground. 



WATER SPROUTS. These shoots, below 

 the point where they are serviceable as 

 branches, are called water-sprouts, and 

 they must be trimmed off at the earliest 

 practicable opportunity. However it is 

 not always advisable to break off these 

 sprouts as soon as they appear. If the 

 upper part of the tree has started new 

 growth simultaneously with the stock, 

 then the stock should be cleared, and the 

 earlier the better. Rub off the incipient 

 shoots when no bigger than the point of 

 a pin and the vitality of the tree will go 

 into the top, provided the top is ready to 

 receive it. But when the water-sprouts 

 are the only growth the tree attempts to 

 make, it is advisable to let them remain 

 for the good they may do. The leaves 

 thus put forth will elaborate the sap and 

 start the vital forces of the tree through- 

 out. With the additional strength thus 

 gained the top buds, in turn will be pushed 

 forth, and when these shall have 

 formed branches and leaves the water- 

 sprouts may be safely dispensed with. 

 Should the top utterly fail to grow, and 

 become dead, the topmost or most vigor- 

 ous of the water-sprouts may be preserved 

 to form a new stock and top. 



SUCKERS. This growth which starts 

 from the crown of the roots just below 

 the surface of the ground should be cut 

 off as soon as discovered, as it will sap the 

 life of the tree if allowed to grow. Only 

 in one instance is there an exception to 

 the rule of destruction of suckers. If you 

 are satisfied the main stock is dead or 

 likely to die, the sucker may be left to 

 form a new tree. But bear in mind, the 

 sucker tree will be a seedling. 



