INSECTS. 



19 



can drop the plants on the other rows, either 

 side, directly opposite. The top of the plant should be 

 laid to the left hand of the planters, to be the more readily 

 taken up for depositing in the hole, which, by the way, 

 should be made with a dibble in the right hand while the 

 plant is being picked up with the left. 



It is not advisable to drop out plants of celery, leek, 

 etc., which are set close in the rows, but here time may 

 be saved by having one person to carry the plants in a 

 basket, and hand them out as wanted by the planters. 

 Should watering have to be resorted to, let it be done 

 while there is no sun on the plants, as this would scorch 

 the leaves, and the surface of the soil be apt to bake. The 

 best time for watering is after sundown, or at least late in 

 the afternoon. 



In transplanting into cold-frame or hot-bed, let the 

 earth be freshly dug or raked, and after setting the plants, 

 partially shade them for a few days, but do not wholly 

 exclude the light. Use two broad boards to step on ; the 

 face of one of these may be notched out at the distances 

 required between the plants, when regularity is desired. 



INSECTS. 



The insects which annoy the gardener and damage or 

 destroy his crops are of several kinds. 



The Striped Bug is very destructive to young plants of 

 cucumber, melon, squash, etc. Tobacco-dust, bone-flour, 

 ashes, soot, etc., are used to destroy or drive them away, 

 but I have never found anything equal to shell-lime, air- 

 slaked, for their destruction. 



The Cabbage Flea, a small, black insect, which attacks 

 young plants of cabbage, turnip, etc., is also very de- 

 structive, but easily conquered by early applications of 

 the last-named remedy in liberal quantity. 



The Cabbage Louse (I use the common names), a small, 



