OSTIAK CHOOM ON THE OB 



CHAPTER XLVI. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 



Perm De-Tatarisation of Russia The Siberiak Heavy Rain 

 Autumnal Tints Kazan Search for a Professor The Museum Tatars 

 Steamboat Accident The Volga Nishni Novgorod Moscow Its 

 Museum St. Petersburg. 



IT was quite dark when we reached Perm on Saturday, 

 the 1 5th of September, and we at once drove to the 

 steamer Samolot, or "self-flyer," delighted to bid a long 

 adieu to tarantass, telega, and Tatar yemschik, and to 

 find ourselves once more directly steaming towards 

 Europe and civilisation. 



Russia has made enormous progress since the 

 abolition of serfdom ; yet the moment you cross its 

 frontier you still feel that you have left Europe and 



