KAZAN 481 



poplars. This was thoroughly Siberian, yet we were 

 enduring all the miseries of the worst season of European 

 climate. In the morning rain and wind, in the afternoon 

 wind and rain. Another feature in the landscape showed 

 that we had left Siberia: the much greater extent of land 

 under cultivation, and the increased number of villages. 

 What struck me most was the immense amount of traffic 

 on the river ; we were continually meeting steamers towing 

 two, three, four, and in one instance ten large barges laden 

 with goods en route for Siberia. 



We ought to have reached Kazan at eleven o'clock 

 the next morning, but a driving hurricane of wind and 

 rain in our teeth delayed us until three in the afternoon. 

 The town lay some four versts inland, and was connected 

 with the river by a tramway. We bargained with an 

 isvostchik to drive us direct to the University, a huge 

 pile of buildings surrounding, in a rambling fashion, a 

 large courtyard, possibly intended for a garden, where 

 confusion reigned supreme. Six hundred students from 

 all parts of Russia and Siberia are educated at this 

 University, where, no doubt, the elements of disorder 

 everywhere so rife in the Russian character are thoroughly 

 inculcated. I had a letter of introduction from an 

 eminent ornithologist in St. Petersburg to Professor 

 Peltzam, whose acquaintance I was most anxious to 

 make, as he had visited the Petchora the year before 

 Harvie- Brown and I were there. After seeking in vain 

 in various official buildings we at last found an old 

 woman, who conducted us to the Professor's house in 

 the University grounds. Madame Peltzam came to the 

 door, and the following colloquy took place : " Is the 

 Professor at home ? " I asked. " No." " Is it possible 

 to send for him?" "No." "Can Madame inform me 

 where we might find him?" "No idea." "Can 



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