50 Geographical IRotes on 



those unaccustomed to the drink. The fermentation takes place in 

 tubs constructed for the purpose, and to aid or expedite the process a 

 little " madre pulque," or pulque mother, is added, which hastens the 

 chemical change. At times fermentation is retarded by a cold spell at 

 the vats. When the laborer draws the sweet sap with his rude siphon, 

 made either of a gourd or a calabash and a hollow horn tip, he dis- 

 charges the contents into a pig- or goat-skin swinging at his back. The 

 " agua miel " in this stage is like a green water in appearance and taste. 

 Soon carbonic acid is formed, and it becomes milky, and resembles in 

 taste very good cider. The amount of carbonic acid contained is so 

 great, and the decomposition so incredibly rapid, that in a few hours 

 it would become vinegar if not closely watched. To prevent this the 

 pulque dulce, or sweet pulque, is poured into a tinacal an oxhide 

 strapped to a square wooden frame, and capable of holding a consid- 

 erable amount of the liquid. These tinacals are of various sizes, to 

 meet the emergencies of the situation. 



To the sweet pulque is added an equal proportion of milk, and 

 then a slight dose of infusion of rennet. This is not enough to coagu- 

 late it, but sufficient to induce a slight amount of putrescence, as in 

 cheese. The putrid odor and flavor of pulque as sold in the pulque 

 shops is due to the rennet alone, for the belief that this is caused by 

 the flavor of the pigskin, in which it is brought to market, is without 

 foundation. 



From the tinacal it is poured into a hogshead by means of pigskins, 

 and it is transferred to the barrels of venders from the hogsheads of 

 the " haciendado " by means of the same skins. 



The plants are wholly independent of rain and storm, and are of a 

 beautiful deep-green color. The pulque is carried every day to the 

 City of Mexico, by special trains, in " barricas," or large tierces, and 

 by " cueros de pulque," or pigskins filled with the liquid. 



The plant does not arrive at maturity or yield its sap before its 

 eighth year. During the growth of the plant a central bulb is formed 

 for its coming juices. This is scooped out, leaving a cavity or hole 

 large enough to hold a few quarts. This cavity is made in the bottom 

 and middle of the plant. The juice exudes into this cavity and is 

 taken out daily by being sucked into a long-necked gourd on the 

 siphon principle, by the Indian laborers, and then poured into the tubs 

 taken to the fields and then removed to the vats. 



The outlay on each plant up to maturity is calculated generally at 

 about $2, and the return is from $7 to $10, according to the size of the 

 plant. Its period of production is about five months, and each plant 

 supposed to yield from 125 to 160 gallons of liquid during that time. 



The principal regions for the cultivation of the maguey are the arid 

 limestone chains of hills, and here, in many places, the hole for the 



