8 THROrCH CFNTRAI. BORNEO 



up in absolute calm, while the long twilight was still 

 further prolonged by a brilliant afterglow. 



Taking advantage of the permit to leave the steamer 

 and rejoin it in Kobe, and having received useful advice 

 from Cook's representative who came on board, I imme- 

 diately went ashore. On calling a rickshaw I was much 

 surprised to find that the man spoke English quite well. 

 He trotted continuously twenty minutes, to the railway 

 station, where in good time I caught the train for the 

 West, and at daybreak I was ready to observe the beauti- 

 ful country through which we passed. I had made no 

 provision for breakfast, but one of my fellow travellers, 

 who came from Tokio, had the courtesy to offer me two 

 snipe with bacon, which tasted uncommonly well. 



In the morning I arrived at Kioto, the city of many 

 temples, and found the Kioto hotel satisfactory. I shall 

 not attempt to describe in detail the fascination of the 

 two days I spent here, where one still may see something 

 of old Japan. In Kobe, Nagasaki, and other cities ex- 

 posed to the stream of travellers, Western influence is 

 evident everywhere, and the inhabitants are less attrac- 

 tive on that account. After all one has heard and read 

 about the charm of the country, one is inclined to think 

 that the reports are exaggerated, but as far as my brief 

 experience in Nippon goes, it is the most beautiful and 

 interesting country that I have visited, and I hope in the 

 future to know it better. 



Ihe deepest impression made upon me by riie Japanese 

 was that they are all so active, healthy, and strong; al- 

 ways good-tempered, their manners are exquisite, even the 



