JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER 71 



quite a number of fish and the Kenyahs had a good time. 



The traveller soon assumes a feeling of confidence in 

 these experienced men as, according to circumstances, 

 they paddle, pole, or drag the prahu by a long piece of 

 rattan tied to the inside of the bow. In passing these 

 rapids most of them got out and dragged us by the rattan, 

 but as the shore consisted of big stones that sometimes 

 were inaccessible, they would often throw themselves with 

 the rope into the foaming water and manage to get foot- 

 hold a little further up. Sometimes it looked as if they 

 would not succeed, the prahu receding precariously, but 

 they were so quick in their movements and the prahus 

 followed each other so closely that it was possible to give 

 mutual help. 



Amban Klesau, the only son of the chief of Long 

 Mahan, directed my prahu. He had taken part in an 

 expedition to New Guinea and was an efficient and pleas- 

 ant man who had seen something of the world, but his 

 attire was fantastic, consisting of a long white night- 

 shirt with a thin red girdle around the waist, to which 

 was attached his parang adorned with many ornaments. 

 He liked that shirt, for he did not take it off all day, 

 notwithstanding the extreme heat. The dry season had 

 set in, and though in our travels I took good care to place 

 mats over the iron boxes in which cameras and plates 

 were kept, still they became warm. When I photo- 

 graphed, perspiration fell like rain-drops. At Long Ma- 

 han (mahan = difficulties, or time spent) we found the 

 pasang-grahan occupied by travelling Malays, two of 

 whom were ill from a disease resembling cholera, so we 



