UP THE BUSANG RIVER 167 



a cure for a few white spots on the finger-nails. In the 

 previous camp a Penyahbong had consulted me for a 

 stomach-ache and I gave him what I had at hand, a small 

 quantity of cholera essence much diluted in a cup of 

 water. All the rest insisted on having a taste of it, 

 smacking their lips with evident relish. 



Early next morning the prahus were hauled up the 

 rapids and then loaded, after which the journey was con- 

 tinued through a smiling, slightly mountainous country, 

 with trees hanging over the river. We actually had a 

 course of smooth water, and before us, near the horizon, 

 stretched two long ridges with flat summits falling 

 abruptly down at either side of the river. At two o'clock 

 in the afternoon we reached the foot of two big kihams, 

 and Bangsul considered it time to camp. It must be 

 admitted that the work was hard and progress necessarily 

 slow. Nevertheless, it was so early in the day that I sug- 

 gested going a little further. Soon, however, seeing the 

 futility of trying to bring him to my way of thinking, I 

 began arrangements for making camp. Better to go 

 slowly than not to travel at all. Close to my tent, grow- 

 ing on low trees, were a great number of beautiful yel- 

 low and white orchids. 



Toward sunset, Bangsul surprised me by bringing all 

 the men to my tent. He said they wanted to go home 

 because they were afraid I should expect too much of 

 them, as they all wanted to travel plan-plan (slowly). 

 The Penyahbongs before me were of a decent sort, and 

 even the Malays were a little more gentle and honest 

 than usual. Bangsul was "the whole thing," and I felt 



