OUR JOURNEY RESUMED 283 



diameter, are protected on journeys by being encased in 

 rattan netting. The Kenyahs are perhaps the most 

 capable of all the natives of Borneo. Of the one hundred 

 and seventy-nine visiting members of the tribe, only one 

 was afflicted with the skin diseases so prevalent among 

 many of the other Dayaks, and, according to Doctor J. 

 M. Elshout, syphilis is not found among those of Apo 

 Kay an. 



The steamship connection with Samarinda is irregular, 

 and as a small transport steamer was making ready to 

 take away its usual cargo of rattan and rubber, I decided 

 to avail myself of the opportunity. The commercial 

 products are loaded in a fair-sized boat, which is made 

 fast to the side of the steamer, and a similar one may be 

 attached to the other side. Such boats, which are called 

 tonkang, also take passengers, mostly Malay and Chinese, 

 but there are no cabins, and the travellers spread their 

 mats on the limited deck according to mutual agreement. 



A swarm of Kenyahs began at seven o'clock to convey 

 our baggage, and the soldiers later reported that there 

 was not even standing-room left. I climbed on board 

 and found rattan piled high everywhere, covering even 

 the steps that led up to the "passenger-deck," where I 

 emerged crawling on all fours. A shelter of duck had been 

 raised for me in one corner, the lieutenant and Mr. 

 Loing placed their beds in the adjoining space, while the 

 soldiers camped next to them. All the natives, packed 

 closely together, formed another row. 



The most necessary of my belongings were stored 

 inside the shelter, and there I passed the four days quite 



