296 THROUGH CENTRAL BORNEO 



vitation to breakfast I declined with regret, because 

 when one is travelling it is very troublesome to change 

 clothing, shave, and appear civilised. 



We arrived at Pengaron at noon. The kapala of the 

 district, a Malay with the title of kiai, lived in a com- 

 fortable house formerly occupied by a controleur, one 

 room serving the purpose of a pasang-grahan. On our 

 arrival he was at the mosque, but returned in an hour. 

 The vaccinateur was already there, and by a lucky chance 

 Ismail made his appearance, the kapala from Mandin, 

 whom the controleur thought would be useful, as he had 

 influence with Malays and Dayaks. The kiai, a remark- 

 ably genial man, was the most agreeable Malay I met. 

 He behaved like an European, bathed in the bathroom, 

 a la Dutch, dressed very neatly, and had horses and car- 

 riage. The hours were told by a bell from four o'clock 

 in the morning, and two clocks could be heard striking, 

 one an hour ahead of the other. 



In the afternoon, Mr. Krol, the mining engineer, re- 

 turned from a trip of a month's duration, wearing a pe- 

 dometer around his neck. He had walked twenty miles 

 in the jungle that day. A Dayak who had accompanied 

 him from Pa-au, one day's march toward the east, gave 

 me some information about the giant pig, known to exist 

 in Southern Borneo from a single skull which at present 

 is in the Agricultural High School Museum of Berlin. 

 During my Bornean travels I constantly made inquiries 

 in regard to this enormous pig, which is supposed to be as 

 large as a Jersey cow. From information gathered, Pa- 

 au appears to be the most likely place where a hunt for 



