3 i2 THROUGH CENTRAL BORNEO 



We came to a number of beautiful rails, males and 

 females, from the large marshes of the neighbourhood; 

 the birds were busily running about, but at sight of 

 her they stopped and emitted clacking notes. From the 

 same marshes had been obtained many small brownish 

 ducks with exquisitely shaded coats. The snake bird, 

 with its long, straight, sharp beak and long, thin neck, she 

 said was dangerous, and she teased him to thrust his head 

 through the rails. Finally she took from a cage two 

 musangs which were resting and pressed them against her 

 chest. They were as tame as cats. It was curious to 

 note that when walking they held their tails so that a 

 loop was formed in the middle. 



In Negara are many high-gabled houses, which I was 

 told are Bandjermasin style; at all events, they form 

 the original Malay architectural pattern in Borneo. The 

 town is strongly Malay and famous for its boat-build- 

 ing. The gondola-like boats of ironwood that attract 

 the attention of the stranger on his first visit to Band- 

 jermasin, come from this place. Mosquitoes were trou- 

 blesome in the surrounding marshes; nevertheless, I un- 

 derstand there is no malaria. 



In this and similar sections in the vicinity of Bandjer- 

 masin it is noticeable that Malay women and girls whiten 

 their faces on special occasions, doubtless in imitation of 

 Chinese custom. The paint, called popor, is made from 

 pulverised egg-shells mixed with water, and, for the finest 

 quality, pigeons' egg-shells are utilised. Where there is 

 much foreign influence Dayak women have adopted this 

 fashion for festal occasions. At harvest time, when both 



