JOURNEY SOUTHWARD 347 



Here I saw a new and somewhat striking arrangement 

 for the disposition of the dead. A small white house 

 contained several coffins guarded by seven kapatongs of 

 medium size, which stood in a row outside, with the lower 

 part of their legs and bodies wrapped in mats. The 

 skull of a water-buffalo and many pigs' jaws hung near 

 by. Two tall memorial staffs, called pantars, had been 

 erected, but instead of the wooden image of the great 

 hornbill which usually adorns the top, the Dutch flag 

 presented itself to view. Appearing beautiful to the 

 Dayaks it had been substituted for the bird. The all- 

 important second funeral having been celebrated, the 

 dead occupied their final resting place. 



We spent the night at a large kampong where there 

 was a fine, straightforward kapala who appeared at a 

 disadvantage only when, with intent to please me, he 

 wore clothes, but from whom I gained valuable informa- 

 tion. He also had a sense of humour, and next day when 

 our coffin was carried ashore, in order that I might be 

 enlightened in regard to the significance of its decorations, 

 he laughed heartily and exclaimed in astonishment at 

 the sight. With the exception of the upper part of the 

 back, few parts of his body were left uncovered with 

 tatu marks. Over and below each knee he had extra 

 designs to protect him from disease, he said, each of 

 which represented a fish of ancient times. 



At our next and last stopping-place the small pasang 

 grahan, on very tall poles, was in poor condition and the 

 roof was full of holes, but the kapala, an uncommonly 

 satisfactory man — there was no Malay about him — saw 



