CHAPTER XXI 



HOMEWARD 



Winter comes on — Departure from Lake Argentino — Changed aspect of 

 country — Snow-clouds — Indian encampment — Race with the snow — River 

 Coyly— River Gallegos — Ford — Signs of civilisation — Gallegos— Taking pas- 

 sage in steamer — Lighted street — Good-bye to Bernardo — Meeting with 

 Mr. W'aag and Mr. \'on Plaatcn Hallermund on the Elena — What Patagonia 

 taught me. 



A FORTNIGHT before we started there was a couple of feet of snow 

 on the high pampa. Beside the lake it had been blowin^r heavilv, 

 and storms of sleet followed each other in dreary succession. 

 Every morning" we saw the white cloak of winter throwin"" its 

 snowy folds lower and lower upon the mountains. The severe 

 season of the Cordillera and Southern Patagonia was fast shuttin"- 

 us in ; already the Pass to Punta Arenas was closed feet deep in 

 snow, and our only outlet for the south la\' towards Callegos. It 

 had been my wish to remain as long as possible in the neighbour- 

 hood ot the Andes, but I had overstayed the utmost limit I origin- 

 ally set myself, and now there was nothing for it but to make a 

 rush for the coast while the journey could still be made. 



On May 15 we started in hea\\- rain. The horses were in 

 excellent condition ; indeed, they were too fat, for of late thev had 

 not had enough exercise to prepare them for a very trying journev. 

 We took three cargtieros besides the horses for riding, and the 

 party consisted of Mr. Cattle's shepherd, George Gregory. Bernardo 

 and myself. Ai the second camp Gregory was obliged to turn 

 back, as his horses — a troop of colts — had wandered during the 

 night. I his was at the River del Bote ; from there Bernartlo and 

 1 went on alone. We found the aspect t)f the couiUr\- nuuh 

 changed since we had crossed it three and a half months j)reviousJy. 

 The green grass had grown vellow, the streams cuul liie lauoons 



