8 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 



was, of course, flooded, and, considering tlie combination 

 of difficulties caused by a gale, a sandstorm, hel^iless ferry- 

 men, and ropes breaking every minute, it was a wonder 

 that we and our mules were not carried out to sea in a 

 body. Altogether our baggage was twelve hours in 

 getting over the nine miles of flat ground between Acre 

 and Caifa. 



The weather now changed, and continued fine for our 

 ride down the travel-beaten track that leads through 

 Nablous to the capital of Palestine. Our only remain- 

 ing difficulty was the mud, which made the Plain of 

 Esdraelon almost impassable : now one mule, now another, 

 stuck in the treacherous quagmire, but the ' delicate in- 

 struments ' had been confided to an animal equal to his 

 trust, which either kept its legs, or sank in the gentlest 

 and most graceful manner. We reached Jerusalem on 

 February 18th, having been twelve days on the road. 



We quartered ourselves in the Damascus Hotel, which 

 is fairly comfortable, and commands a fine view of the 

 Mosque of Omar and Mount Olivet from the windows of 

 the salle-a-manger. As soon as possible we enquired for 

 Lieutenant Warren, hoping to deliver to him in person 

 the case of ' delicate instruments,' and to hear how their 

 internal organisation had borne the journey ; but he had 

 already left Jerusalem for the trip to the east side of the 

 Dead Sea, which ended so sadly in the death of one of his 

 companions, of Jericho fever. 



The English Vice-Consul kindly accompanied me when 

 I went to present a letter of introduction from M. Musurus 

 (the Turkish Ambassador in London) to the local Pasha, 

 who was most courteous, and promised to do anything 

 in his power for us. Thus encouraged, we reflected 

 what boon we should ask. We were all somewhat dis- 

 appointed with the unadventurous character of a ride 



