LOST ON THE HILLS. 21 



now became more wooded, the principal tree being the 

 dwarf evergreen oak. We sat down to lunch, on a spot 

 commanding a lovely view northwards, over a broken and 

 richly -wooded landscape, in the centre of which, in an 

 upland plain, on the further side of the Jabbok valley, 

 we could distinguish the golden-coloured columns of the 

 great temple at Jerash. In the foreground were some 

 picturesque peasants, natives of Es-Salt, engaged in 

 ploughing the ground with the most primitive of agri- 

 cultural instruments. We rode on in a north-easterly 

 direction, across an undulating country ; from the position 

 of the Jabbok valley, I fancied we must be going too far 

 east ; Elias, however, turned a deaf ear to my remon- 

 strances, and went off in futile pursuit of some partridges. 

 The baggage mules lingered, and for some time our 

 cavalcade was separated into three detachments, each of 

 which had, more or less, lost its way. A good deal of time, 

 and much temper, was expended before we rejoined our 

 scattered forces, but luckily no foes were at hand to profit 

 by such bad generalship. The glen through which the 

 Jabbok flows is narrow, steep-sided, and not accessible at 

 all points for laden beasts. As we descended the slopes, 

 we passed many prostrate columns and blocks of marble, 

 the relics of some town unknown to fame. 



Before making the final descent to the stream, Elias and 

 I trotted off to reconnoitre the country, and look for a 

 good camping-ground. The day was already far spent, 

 and we were not best pleased to discover that the grassy 

 plain we had previously fixed upon as our haltiug-piace, at 

 the junction with the Jabbok of a northern affluent, was 

 occupied by an Arab encampment. We determined, 

 notwithstanding, to put a bold face on the situation, 

 and adhere to our original plan. We were too near to 

 escape the notice of the Arabs, and the best course was 



