22 BASHAX. 



to show that we were not afraid of them. We crossed the 

 Jabbok, a clear trout-stream hidden in a dense thicket of 

 oleanders, and rode down its right bank half a mile to the 

 plain. Halting on its verge, we began to unload our 

 mules, while Khasim went off on an embassy to the 

 Sheikh's tent, conspicuous amongst the rest by its size. 

 The fear of European weapons, and the unknown force of 

 government at our back, joined to the Oriental dislike to 

 attack strangers who have assumed the character of 

 guests, overcame even the covetousness of a needy horde 

 of Bedouins, and a deputation soon returned Khasim's 

 visit, bringing as presents some milk and a lamb. For 

 the latter it was afterwards suggested payment would be 

 acceptable. 



Our hosts turned out to be of the Beni-Hassan tribe — 

 one formerly of great power, but now down in the world. 

 Their encampment consisted of thirty-five long black 

 tents, each holding about ten men, besides women and 

 children. It was already evening, and the flocks were 

 being gathered in ; tall camels strolled listlessly about, 

 cows placidly awaited their milking-time, sheep and goats 

 hustled one another do^vn the slopes, wiry little horses 

 grazed, or were picketed, near the tents, and an odd 

 donkey or two brayed a fussy welcome to his brothers in 

 our train, who were not slow to return the greeting. 



While our dinner -was preparing, we were surrounded by 

 the most ill-favoured crowd I ever saw. The villanous 

 expression of countenance common to almost all the men 

 reminded me of the Sepoy faces, as they were drawn in 

 the illustrated papers, at the time of the Indian Mutiny. 

 The Bedouin dress, the long burnous, and kefiyeh or scarf 

 round the head, though picturesque, did not lessen the 

 savage aspect of the assemblage. All our small belong- 

 ings were objects of perpetual wonder — in particular, 



