X CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IV. 



TRANSCAUCASIA. 



PAGE 



On the Black Sea — Trebizonde — Rival Interpreters — Paul — Running a 

 Muck — Batoum — The Caucasus in Sight — Landing at Poti — The Rion 

 Steamer — A Drive in the Dark — Kutais — Count I;everschoff— Splendid 

 Costumes — Mingrelian Princesses — Azaleas — The Valley of the Quirili — 

 A Post Station — The Georgian Plains — Underground Villages — Gori — 

 First View of Kazbek— Tiflis— The Hotel d'Europe— The Streets- 

 Silver and Pur Bazaars — Maps — German Savants — The Botanical 

 Garden — The Opera — Oificialism Rampant — A Palse Frenchwoman — 

 A Paraclodnaia — The Postal System in Russia 74 



CHAPTER V. 

 THK PERSIAN POST-ROAD. 



The Banks of the Kur — Troops on the March — A Romantic Valley— 

 Delidschan — A Desolate Pass — The Gokcha Lake — Ararat — Erivan — - 

 The Kurds — The Valley of the Araxes — A Steppe Storm — A Dangerous 

 Ford — Nakliitchevan — A Money Question — Djulfa — Charon's Ferry and 

 a Modern Cerberus — A Friend in Need — A Persian Khan — Maraud — 

 Entrance to Tabreez — Chez Lazarus . . . , . . .112 



CHAPTER VI. 

 TABREEZ, ARARAT, AND THE GEORGIAN HILL-COUNTRY. 



The City— Brick Architecture — The Shah's Birthday — The European 

 Colony — A Market Committee — Retiu-n to Djulfa — A Dust Storm — Ford 

 of the Araxes — Aralykli — Start for Ararat — Refractory Kurds — A Moon- 

 light Climb — ^Failure — A Lonely Perch— Vast Panorama — Tucker's 

 Story — A Gloomy Descent— Return to Erivan — Etchmiadzin — The Arme- 

 nian Patriarch — A Dull Ride— Eammamly — The Georgian Hills— Dje- 

 laloghlu — A Moist Climate — Schulaweri — Tiflis again — Moore joins us . 141 



CHAPTER VII. 



THE KRESTOWAJA GORA AND ASCENT OF KAZBEK. 



Start for the Mountains— The Pass of the Caucasus— Kazbek Post Station 

 — The Governors — A Reconnaissance in force — Legends — Avalanches — 

 The Old Men's Chorus— Men in Ai'mour — Our Bivouac — A Critical 

 Moment— Scaling an Icewall — The Summit — The Descent— A Savage 

 Glen — A Night with the Shepherds — Return to the Village — Caucasian 

 Congratulations 179 



